Birds as Pets - Because birds make cool pets!

Brant (Branta bernicla)

2008-03-30T12:04:00.001-07:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Found in Arctic tundra; in winter, usually frequents coastal bays, marshes, and estuaries (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends form Southampton Island in Hudson Bay north to Greenland and west along the Arctic coast and islands of northern Canada to Western Alaska. Winters on the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of the United States, south to Baja California, Mexico, and Florida; also along the coastline of British Columbia and southeastern Alaska (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Small size; black on head, neck, and upper breast. Note small, white patch on side of neck. Depending on subspecies, belly color may be pale gray or mostly black in color.

Nest Habits: Breeds in loose colonies; nest is placed on the ground and is a depression lined with down feathers, grasses, leaves, and other materials.

Eggs: 1-8, usually 3-5; 73 millimeter; dull white in color.

Incubation: Incubation lasts approximately 22-26 days, by female. Young are able to fly when they are approximately 40-50 days old; both sexes care for the young.

Canada Goose (Branta canadensis)

2008-03-30T12:01:00.001-07:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Found in a variety of habitats, ranging from tundra to pasturelands, and flooded agricultural fields to wooded swamps; almost always near water.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from the Arctic coast of Alaska east to northern Canada and western Greenland; and south to an approximate line extending from central California east to Tennessee, Kentucky, New York, and Virginia. Widespread in winter, at which time it can be found in southern Alaska, southern Canada, and throughout many of the lower 48 states; and even into northern Mexico. In the U.S., there are many feral populations of Canada Geese, even in areas that are outside the normal breeding range (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Black neck, gray body plumage, and white chin patch that extends up onto side of face.

Nest Habits: Breeds on the ground, usually near water. Nest consists of a depression lined with grasses, mosses, and small sticks. Also readily accepts artificial nest platforms.

Eggs: 2-12, usually 4-7; 74-90 millimeter; white.

Incubation: Incubation lasts approximately 25-30 days, by female. Young are able to fly when they are approximately 40-73 days old; both sexes care for the young.

Ross' Goose (Chen rossii)

2008-03-30T11:58:00.000-07:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Tundra and other open areas, usually near bodies of fresh water or brackish marshes. Often forages in pasturelands, cultivated fields, and flooded farmlands.

Distribution: Breeds in northern Mackenzie and northwestern Keewatin, east to Southampton Island and the west coast of Hudson Bay south to James Bay. Wintering range primarily consists of the interior valleys of California; can also be found in southern New Mexico, northern Mexico, Colorado and Oklahoma east to Missouri and southwestern Louisiana. In migration, may also be found in other mid-Western states (e.g., Iowa and Illinois), Kentucky, and Tennessee (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Similar to the Snow Goose, but noticeably smaller in size, with a shorter neck, and a smaller, stubbier bill that lacks a 'grinning patch'. In adults, base of bill is often covered with bluish warty protuberances. Immatures are similar to immature Snow Geese, but are usually paler in color (and, of course, smaller in size).

Nest Habits: Breeds on the ground, in colonies. Nest consists of a depression or scrape that is lined with grasses, mosses, lichens, and twigs or roots.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 3-5; 74 millimeter; white.

Incubation: Incubation lasts approximately 21-24 days, by female. Young are able to fly when they are approximately 40-45 days old; both sexes care for the young.

Is an African Grey Right for You?

2008-02-04T10:37:00.000-08:00

If you want a parrot that can talk, you may want to consider the African grey. This extremely intelligent parrot species is the best talker in the parrot family. Of course, this doesn't mean that every African grey will talk, but most of them do learn to speak quite fluently.

While African greys are often excellent talkers, this doesn't mean they are the right pet for everyone that wants a talking bird. These birds have a tendency to become shy and standoffish if they aren't handled frequently. Greys that are handled often still are rarely as cuddly and affectionate as other parrot species. If you want a bird that loves to snuggle with you, you may want to avoid this species.

Another thing to consider before you shop for an African grey is whether any family members have allergies or asthma. African greys have more dander than most other bird species. People who aren't bothered by allergies to parakeets or conures may find that they can't tolerate an African grey.

While they have many of the same care requirements as other bird species, there are a few things you should keep in mind when you are caring for African greys. These birds can grow up to become cage bound and fearful if they aren't exposed to different people and situations at a young age.

Even worse, because of their high intelligence, if these birds feel neglected or lack stimulation, they will often start plucking out their chest, shoulder and tail feathers. This means that you should be sure to give your bird plenty of toys and you should be prepared to interact with him for at least an hour a day. Toys that involve some sort of problem solving element, such as knots to undo or mazes to solve are a good choice.

All African greys need a roomy cage. Even if your bird will be spending time on a play gym or T stand each day, he will need room to play and explore while he is in his cage. The ideal cage is two feet (60 cm) deep by three feet (91 cm) wide and four feet (121 cm) tall, which gives him enough space to flap his wings, climb around and hang upside down.

Of course, a bigger cage is always better. Be sure any cage you choose has strong bars that are spaced between 3/4 of an inch (1,91 cm) and an inch (2,54 cm) apart. Also, make sure that any decorative scrollwork is nowhere near the inside of your bird's cage, as more than one African grey has injured himself by catching a leg band on the scrollwork.

If you decide that an African grey is the right bird for you, then you will need to decide whether you want a Timneh grey or a Congo grey. The Timneh is smaller and usually talks less readily than the Congo. In addition, the Timneh is not as colorful, since he lacks the bright red tail of the Congo. However, the Timneh is often much cheaper.

If you want a bird that is intelligent enough to hold an actual conversation, but doesn't always care to cuddle, then the African grey may just be the perfect choice for you.

Snow Goose (Chen caerulescens)

2008-01-29T08:52:00.000-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Tundra and other open areas, usually near bodies of fresh water or salt-water marshes. Often forages in pasturelands, cultivated fields, and flooded farmlands.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from northern Alaska east along the Arctic coast and islands to northwestern Greenland and Baffin Island, and south to Hudson Bay. Winters in the west from coastal British Columbia south to California, Baja California, southwestern Arizona, and Mexico; in the mid-West from Nebraska, Iowa and the Great Lakes south to the Gulf Coast; and in the east along the Atlantic coast from New York south to Florida (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Black primary feathers. Two color phases: a blue phase and a white phase. In adult birds, note the thick, black 'grinning patch' that separates the upper and lower mandibles; compare with Ross' Goose. Adults have pink bills whereas the bills of immatures are darker.

Nest Habits: Breeds on the ground, in colonies; nest is a depression lined with mosses, grasses, and down feathers.

Eggs: 1-8, usually 3-5; 80 millimeter; white in color.

Incubation: Incubation lasts approximately 23-25 days, by female. Young are able to fly when they are approximately 45-49 days old; both sexes care for the young.

Greater White-fronted Goose (Anser albifrons)

2008-01-29T08:50:00.001-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Open areas, arctic tundra, usually near water; in winter and migration, also frequents pastures and flooded agricultural fields.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from Alaska eastward across northern Yukon, Mackenzie, and Keewatin to western Greenland. Winter range in the west extends from southern British Columbia south to Baja California; in the mid-west, from Texas and Louisiana north to Oklahoma and Kansas; and in the eastern U.S. from the Great Lakes region south to Mississippi and Florida (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Key field marks include the black speckling on the belly, the pink bill bordered with white at the base, and the orange legs and feet.

Nest Habits: Breeds in loose colonies on open tundra.

Eggs: 1-7, usually 5-6; 79 millimeter; buffy-white or cream-colored.

Incubation: The female incubates the eggs; both sexes care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 23-25 days and the young are capable of flight when they are about 45 days old.

Tundra Swan (Cygnus columbianus)

2008-01-20T04:17:00.001-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Found in tundra habitats; also on open lakes and ponds or in shallowly flooded agricultural fields.

Distribution: Breeds in the Arctic tundra from western Alaska east to Baffin Island; and from there south to Churchill and the Hudson Bay area of Quebec. Winters along the Pacific Coast inland to Nevada, Utah, Montana, and Wyoming, and south to southern Texas, New Mexico, and extreme northern Mexico; also in the Great Lakes region, and along the Atlantic Coast from Maryland to North Carolina (A.O.U. 1998). Migrants and small numbers of wintering birds may be found at many inland locations in the mid-West.

Field Marks: Black on bill does not extend to encompass eye; many adults have yellow spot on bill in front of eye. Immatures are dusky gray.

Nest Habits: Builds a nest of dried grasses or sedges on the ground.

Eggs: 2-7. Usually 4-5; 107 millimeter; creamy-white in color.

Incubation: Females incubate the eggs; both sexes care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 35-40 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 60-70 days old.

Trumpeter Swan (Cygnus buccinator)

2008-01-18T05:44:00.001-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Found in freshwater lakes, marshes, and rivers with slow-moving waters with emergent vegetation; occasionally in brackish waters (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from Alaska south to northern British Columbia, southwestern Mackenzie, northwestern Alberta, western and central Montana, and southern Saskatchewan (local breeder within this range); formerly bred as far south as the mid-Western United States. Wintering range extends from southern Alaska south to California; also in Arizona, New Mexico, and east to Colorado and Minnesota (A.O.U. 1998). The Trumpeter Swan has been introduced and established in many additional locations.

Field Marks: Black bill with no yellow spot (as in Tundra Swan). Black at base of bill extends to encompass the eye (compare closely with Tundra Swan).

Nest Habits: Nest built of aquatic vegetation, is often placed on muskrat houses or beaver lodges; also may be placed along shoreline.

Eggs: 2-13, usually 4-6; 111 millimeter; creamy-white in color.

Incubation: Females incubate the eggs; both sexes care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 33-37 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 91-119 days old.

Mute Swan (Cygnus olor)

2008-01-16T11:41:00.000-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Open lakes, ponds, and marshes, in freshwater habitats. In winter, may also be found in brackish habitats.

Distribution: An Old World species, introduced into the U.S., where breeding has been documented in southwestern British Columbia, southern Saskatchewan, Montana, the Great Lakes region, New York, New England, and additional locations south of this range (A.O.U. 1998). Some records may be the result of birds that have escaped from captivity.

Field Marks: Black knob on orange bill and the S-shaped neck are good field marks for adult birds. On the water, wings are often carried higher than in other North American swans. Dusky gray juvenile plumage begins to turn white by mid-winter.

Nest Habits: Breeds on the ground near water, where it builds its nest from cattails, reeds, and other aquatic vegetation.

Eggs: 4-8, sometimes as many as 10; 113 millimeter; gray or blue-green in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 36 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 115-155 days old.

Fulvous Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna bicolor)

2008-01-14T10:38:00.000-08:00

Family: Anatidae

Habitat: Shallow marshes, lagoons, or flooded fields, in both freshwater and brackish habitats (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from South America, Central America, and Mexico north to southeastern California, central and eastern Texas, southwestern Louisiana, and more locally in central and southern Florida. Northernmost individuals withdraw to the Gulf coast and Florida locales during the winter (A.O.U. 1998). Vagrants have appeared at many locations further north.

Field Marks: Long neck. Orange-brown body color; back is darker with orange-brown feather edges. Note the white rump (compare with Black-bellied Whistling-Duck).

Nest Habits: Nest, of grasses and/or sedges, is usually placed in dense thicket of vegetation (e.g., cattails) at the edge of a marsh or pond.

Eggs: 6-16, usually 12-13, sometimes more; 53 millimeter; buff-white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young; incubation lasts approximately 24-26 days and young are capable of flight when they are about 55-63 days old.

Maybe You Should Get Yourself a Macaw

2008-01-13T10:10:00.000-08:00

One of the biggest and brightest parrots is the macaw. The largest macaws are so big that their beaks are longer than a man's hand. These vibrant, powerful birds are not a good choice for the beginning bird fancier. However, if you are a new bird owner and really want to own a macaw, there are some smaller varieties, such as the Hahn's macaw, that are a good choice for less experienced bird lovers.

If someone asks you to describe a macaw, you probably think of the popular blue and gold. This striking bird has beautiful blue and yellow feathers and is surprisingly inexpensive compared to most other macaw varieties. The blue and gold is almost three feet (91 cm) long from head to tail.

While these birds are usually fairly laid back and gentle, they will often go through a nippy, moody stage in their adolescence. In addition, a mature blue and gold macaw that has gone to nest can be extremely dangerous. Birds that were once sweet and affectionate to their owners will not hesitate to attack and can literally bite right through a person's hand. For this reason, people with young children may want to think twice about buying one of these large macaws.

Another macaw that is a popular pet is the Green Wing. This bird is actually one of the largest macaws and has vibrant green, blue and red coloring. Green Wings are known for their steady, gentle nature, but adolescent birds may go through a shy, nippy stage. You will need to be careful not to stress your bird with sudden changes during this time. If talking ability is important to you, you will want to choose a Green Wing, since this macaw is more likely to talk than other varieties.

The Scarlet macaw is probably the perfect pet for people who love colorful birds. This vibrant bird has bright red, yellow and blue feathers. However, despite its beauty, the Scarlet macaw is not a popular pet bird, because it is prone to being a nippy, moody parrot.

The Hyacinth macaw, the largest parrot in the world, is a beautiful blue bird with yellow accents. Mature birds are 42 inches (106 cm) long and are so powerful that they can literally take any bird cage that is welded together apart with their beaks. Despite its strength and size, this breathtaking macaw is quite good natured and would make an excellent pet. However, because this macaw is on the endangered list, a baby Hyacinth is a bit hard to find and quite expensive.

Finally, if you would love to own a macaw, but are concerned about owning such a large bird, you may want to consider one of the mini macaws. The Hahn's macaw is a petite twelve inch (30 cm) bird with a mostly green body. There are some touches of red, blue and yellow color, but the Hahn's is not very colorful. However, it is an intelligent, playful bird and acts much like the larger macaws do. Other mini macaws that are readily available as pets are the noble, severe and yellow collared macaws.

White-faced Ibis (Plegadis chihi)

2008-01-13T10:09:00.001-08:00

Family: Threskiornithidae

Habitat: Found in fresh-water marshes, swamps, lakes, and flooded fields (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from northern California, eastern Oregon, southern Idaho, Montana, and North Dakota south to Mexico, Texas, and southern Louisiana; generally winters from central California, southwestern Arizona, and coastal areas in Texas and Louisiana south into Mexico and Central America (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: In breeding plumage, overall chestnut color is glossed with dark green or purple. Breeding birds are told from Glossy Ibis most readily by white border to the base of bill which extends behind eye; also, note reddish lores and legs, and compare eye color and bill color. Immatures and non-breeding season adults are difficult to separate from Glossy Ibis.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons. Nest is placed in bulrushes or reeds (or up to 6 feet high in shrub or tree), and consists of a cup of dead aquatic vegetation that is lined with grasses.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 3-4; 52 millimeter; greenish-blue in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 21-22 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 28 days old.

Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)

2008-01-10T10:27:00.001-08:00

Family: Threskiornithidae

Habitat: Found in lagoons, marshes, swamps, and shallow bodies of water, including lakes and flooded fields (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range includes Florida, and extends along the Gulf coast from Alabama to Louisiana, and also along the Atlantic coast north to Maine. Generally winters in Florida and along the Gulf coast to Louisiana (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: In breeding plumage, overall chestnut color is glossed with dark green or purple. Breeding birds are told from White-faced Ibis most readily by lack of white border to the base of bill which extends behind eye; also, note grayish lores and legs, and compare eye color and bill color. Immatures and non-breeding season adults are difficult to separate from White-faced Ibis.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons. Nest is placed on the ground or up to 10 feet high in tree or shrub over water; and consists of a platform of sticks that is occasionally lined with leaves.

Eggs: 1-5, usually 2-4; 52 millimeter; bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 21 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 28 days old.

A Parakeet Could Be the One For You

2008-01-09T09:56:00.000-08:00

If you have never owned a bird before, you may want to take a look at the parakeet. This little bird can be found in almost any pet store at a very reasonable price, which makes it a great choice for someone with a tight budget who is looking for a pet. Cages and toys are also much more economical for parakeets than they are for larger birds.

Despite its small size, the parakeet can make a wonderful, entertaining pet. Although it does not have the ability to mimic voices like an African grey, this little bird is an exceptional talker and has an excellent memory. There have been reports of parakeets with vocabularies of over 400 words and phrases.

The parakeet's playful nature makes it an ideal companion for someone who is homebound. These birds are almost constantly in motion when they are awake and will chatter most of that time.

There are actually two different types of parakeets. The American parakeet is much more active and is smaller than its cousin, the English Budgerigar. American parakeets also are much more prolific, so are easier to find. However, English budgies can still be wonderful pets, especially if you can find a young bird. Just be aware that these birds are more prone to health problems than American budgies, because they have really been inbred over the years as breeders tried to develop an overstuffed look in their show birds.

Since the parakeet has been domesticated for over 150 years, it is no surprise that there are quite a few different colors and patterns to choose from. You can find yellow, lutino, green, blue, violet, white and albino budgies. You can also find pied or spangled birds. Crested parakeets are definitely a conversation starter, since the long, shaggy feathers growing around their heads are definitely unusual looking.

While parakeet seed is certainly popular with these little birds, you'll need to feed your bird a varied diet to keep it happy and healthy. Pellets, fruits and vegetables are all good additions to your bird's food bowl. Whole grain cereal or pieces of whole grain bread are also a good choice.

However, even a healthy, well cared for parakeet with a varied diet does not live as long as many of the larger parrots. Parakeets usually live for eight to ten years, although some of them have been known to live into their teens.

Pet stores often sell extremely small parakeet cages and several supplies as a kit for first time parakeet owners. If you can afford to shop for a larger cage, your active little bird will be much more content. Since parakeets are so curious and energetic, you'll need to be sure you provide plenty of toys for your bird. Parakeets are especially fond of swings, Olympic rings and balls. Although they like mirrors, it isn't a good idea to provide one for your bird, because it will bond to its reflection instead of becoming attached to you.

So, if you want a colorful, playful little bird, then the parakeet may be the perfect pet for you. Just don't be surprised if you have such a hard time choosing one color that you end up with three or four of these little charmers instead.

White Ibis (Eudocimus albus)

2008-01-08T11:47:00.001-08:00

Family: Threskiornithidae

Habitat: Found in lagoons, marshes, mangroves, and shallow bodies of water, including flooded fields.

Distribution: Resident in Baja California, along both slopes of Mexico, along the Gulf coast from Texas to Florida, and along the Atlantic coast north to North Carolina. Wanders far north of this range.

Field Marks: Breeding adult is all white (except for black tips to wings) with pink bill and legs. Immature has pale gray head and neck, and dark wings; by second year it takes on a pied appearance as it begins molt to adult plumage.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies. Nest is placed near or over water, up to 15 feet high in tree; and consists of a platform of sticks lined with leaves.

Eggs: 4-5, usually 2-3; 58 millimeter; greenish-white in color, with brown markings.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs. Incubation usually lasts about 21-23 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 28-35 days old.

Pionus Parrot 101

2008-01-07T11:14:00.001-08:00

So, you want a parrot, but you're concerned about all of the stories you've heard about aggressive, moody birds. Isn't there a mild mannered, quiet parrot out there? Well, while each bird is an individual, overall the Pionus parrot is a sweet natured bird. Some Pionus species are a bit loud, but even those birds are quieter than many other parrot species. Of course, since they are less vocal, Pionus parrots aren't the best talkers. The Maximilian and blue headed Pionus species will be more likely to talk than other Pionus varieties.

Pionus parrots have several unusual traits. Unlike other parrots, they're a bit 'sloppy' in their appearance. When your Pionus is feeling relaxed, he will let his fuzzy down feathers show through his sleek outer feathers. Pionus parrots also have a distinctive odor. It is not strong and few people find it unpleasant, but Pionus parrots definitely do not smell like other birds. Also, when they are scared, Pionus parrots make an odd wheezing noise. While it may sound like your bird is having difficulty breathing, he is just nervous. Remove whatever is scaring him and he will calm down and return to normal.

The white capped Pionus is probably the most commonly available. This mellow charmer is a petite 9 and 1/2 inches (24 cm) tall. This bird has muted green, blue, red and bronze coloring and a white cap. White caps are a bit on the shy side, but don't let your bird's shyness fool you into thinking it is a pushover. They tend to be quietly determined to get their way and a bit stubborn.

Maximilian Pionus parrots are a bit larger than white caps, measuring 11 and 3/4 inches (30 cm) long. These birds are mostly in a dull green color, with a bluish green throat. Many people overlook these wonderful birds because of their dull appearance, but they make great pets. Maxis are loyal, playful and affectionate companions and love to hang out with their families. Of course, since they are shy around strangers and in new situations, your bird may not be very active or personable for the first few days.

If having a colorful bird is important to you, you may want to take a close look at the blue headed Pionus. This striking bird has a bright blue head and a green body and is 11 inches (28 cm) long. Because of its beauty, this bird is the most expensive Pionus, often costing a thousand dollars or more. The blue head makes a sweet and loving family pet, although some of these birds can become a bit demanding and obnoxious if they are spoiled rotten when they are young.

Dusky and bronze wing Pionus parrots are the other two Pionus species available as pet birds. Dusky parrots have an attractive gray blue color with a pinkish chest. These little parrots are 9 and 3/4 inches (24 cm) long. This parrot is known for its intelligence and its curious nature.

Bronze wing Pionus parrots have a bluish body and bronze colored wings. If you are looking at a bronze wing in dim lighting, you may think that the bird isn't very attractive. However, if you take it into a well lit area, you will see that the bronze wing is actually quite striking. These birds are 11 inches (28 cm) long and are very sweet natured. Bronze wings tend to be shyer than other Pionus parrots, but they still make wonderful pets.

If you want a sweet parrot and are not overly concerned with talking ability, the Pionus parrot may be the perfect choice for you.

Wood Stork(Mycteria americana)

2008-01-07T02:25:00.001-08:00

Family: Ciconiidae

Habitat: Found in lakes, ponds, and fresh- and salt-water marshes (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: A resident of Florida, and coastal areas west to Texas and along both slopes of Mexico; and coastal areas north to South Carolina.

Field Marks: Large, heavy, down-curved bill; bald head. All white, with black tail and flight feathers; compare in flight with Whooping Crane.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies. Nest is placed up to 80 feet or higher in tree, and consists of a platform of sticks.

Eggs: 2-4, usually 3; 68 millimeter; white or pale white in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 28-32 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 55-60 days old.

American Bittern (Botaurus lentiginosus)

2008-01-02T14:15:00.000-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in fresh-water and brackish marshes, usually with tall, emergent vegetation (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from southeastern Alaska, southern Mackenzie, northern Manitoba, northern Ontario, Quebec, and Newfoundland south to California, New Mexico, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, western Kentucky, Ohio, Pennsylvania, northeastern West Virginia, Maryland, and Virginia. Generally winters from British Columbia, Washington, Utah, northern Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, the Gulf coast states, and southern New England south into Mexico (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Generally brown in color, with blackish-brown moustache on side of neck; paler below, with brown streaks Call is loud and diagnostic.

Nest Habits: Nest is placed near or over water, in dense growth of cattails, grasses, sedges, or other available vegetation and is built from dried and living plant material such as sticks, grass, and sedges.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 4-5; 49 millimeter; buff-brown to olive-buff in color.

Incubation: The female incubates the eggs and cares for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 28-29 days.

Is Senegal Parrot Your Kind of Bird?

2007-12-31T11:44:00.000-08:00

If you want a bird that is playful, affectionate and colorful, you may want to take a close look at the Senegal parrot. Although the Senegal comes from Africa, this bird is not quite as vocal or as intelligent as the African grey. However, Senegals can easily learn to speak twenty to thirty phrases in their robotic little voices.

These birds are very playful, especially when handfed. If you want a bird you can cuddle, a Senegal is a pretty good choice. In fact, many Senegals are so people oriented that they will roll onto their backs and snuggle in the crook of your arm or 'wrestle' with your fingers by gently grasping them in their beaks. Your Senegal may also follow you in the house as if he is the family dog, hop up onto the coffee table to snatch popcorn from the bowl and beg for treats at the dinner table.

However, the same personality that makes a Senegal a fun and entertaining pet also makes this bird accident prone, so be careful not to step on your bird by accident or let him escape out the door. When you have company, you may want to shut him up in his cage so he doesn't fly onto the hot stove or fall into the toilet because someone forgot to shut the lid.

While Senegals are not the quietest birds in the world, they are not as loud as many of the larger parrots and often make fairly good apartment pets. However, if your walls are thin, a Senegal may still disturb your neighbors when he decides to really sound off.

Senegals are great family pets and they usually bond well with several people. However, some female Senegals bond tightly with one person and are quite aggressive toward other members of the family. If your Senegal begins to act aggressive toward other family members, you will need to act quickly to stop this behavior. The person your Senegal is most attached to should stay in another room while other family members interact with the bird. Try having other people feed your bird and change his cage, as well. Eventually, your Senegal should tolerate the entire family.

Senegals are fairly healthy, hardy little parrots and can easily live 30 years or more. Be sure to give your bird a balanced diet, with plenty of fresh fruits and veggies. Bean mixes are also popular with these birds, but be sure to remove the mix after a few hours to prevent your Senegal from eating spoiled food.

Finally, even if your Senegal spends a lot of time out of the cage, you will still need to be sure that the cage you choose is adequate. It should be roomy enough for your bird to spread his wings and flap them up and down and tall enough allowing your bird to climb a few feet back and forth. Be sure the cage bars are nice and thick or your bird will bend them out of shape.

Least Bittern (Ixobrychus exilis)

2007-12-31T11:42:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in marshes with an abundance of tall, emergent vegetation.

Distribution: Breeding range in the west extends from southern Oregon and California south to southern Arizona, Baja California, and western Mexico; in the east, it breeds from southern Manitoba, the Great Lakes region, southern Quebec, Maine, and New Brunswick south to south-central New Mexico, eastern Mexico, Texas, the Gulf coast states, and Florida. Generally winters from southern California, southwestern Arizona, southern Texas, and Florida south into Mexico (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: This is our smallest heron. Dark outer wings show buffy wing patches; back and crown also dark. Easily learnt call is similar to call of Black-billed Cuckoo.

Nest Habits: Nest is placed near or over water, in dense growth of cattails, bulrushes, or other available vegetation and consists of a platform of dried and living plant material.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 4-5; 31 millimeter; bluish-white or greenish-white in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 19-20 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 25 days old.

Should You Get Yourself a Lovebird?

2007-12-28T15:21:00.000-08:00

If you've seen lovebirds in a pet store, you may have been told that these birds must be sold in pairs and don't actually make good pets. However, while it isn't a good idea to split up a pair of bonded lovebirds, a single handfed baby can be kept alone and will be quite content to be a family pet. You will need to be sure to handle your bird daily to keep it sweet and tame. If you neglect to handle it for a few days, it may become skittish and nippy.

There are nine lovebird species available, including the peachfaced, Fischer's, masked, Abyssinian, Nyasa, black-cheeked, redfaced, black-collared and Madagascar lovebird. With the exception of the Madagascar lovebird, these birds are native to Africa. The only lovebirds readily available as pets are the peachfaced, Fischer's and masked varieties. However, since there are so many different color mutations in these lovebird species, deciding which lovebird you want can almost be overwhelming. For instance, there are actually seventeen different color mutations for peachfaced lovebirds, but the mutations have been bred together to create thousands of additional colors. Interestingly enough, the sweetest pets are those peachfaced lovebirds with a peach cap. The normal and lutino mutations, which have red faces, are often a bit more aggressive and are usually louder. Since lovebirds are so small, many people use parakeet cages for their birds. However, these birds are so playful and active that a slightly larger cage is really a better fit. This way, they can have a set of rings, a swing and a few other toys in the cage without being crowded. Of course, a smaller cage makes it easier for lovebirds to play with several toys at once, which is a favorite occupation for these high energy little guys.

Lovebirds do well on a varied diet, including cockatiel seed mix, cockatiel pellets, vegetables, bean mix and whole grain cereal. An occasional orange slice is also a good idea. Your lovebird should also have a cuttlebone or calcium block to chew on.

While lovebirds are not known for their talking ability, these little birds can actually learn a few words. Their little voices are not very clear, but they can readily learn to say 'hello' and their names. Lovebirds excel in learning simple tricks, such as playing dead.

This bird's spunky, playful personality and active nature makes it the ideal companion for someone who is wheelchair bound, as long as someone else is nearby to help return the bird to its cage if it gets tired of hanging out and hops down. In fact, the lovebird is often found in retirement and nursing home communities because it is so amusing to watch. So, if you are looking for a clownish, but cuddly, pet that is small enough to ride around in your shirt pocket, then you may want to take a close look at the lovebird. These birds may be small in size, but they have a big personality.

Yellow-crowned Night-Heron (Nyctanassa violacea)

2007-12-28T15:16:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in mangroves, and in forested lagoons, swamps, or lakes (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from Baja California, Mexico, the Gulf coast, and Florida north to northeastern Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, southeastern Nebraska, southern and eastern Iowa, and southeastern Minnesota east to Massachusetts. Winters in the southern portion of its breeding range (i.e., Baja California, Mexico, the Gulf coast, and along the Atlantic coast north to South Carolina) (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Crisp, dark gray plumage, with black head, white cheek patch behind eye, and pale-white crown. Compare immature with immature Black-crowned Night-Heron; note comparatively longer legs in flight.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons. Nest is placed up to 40 feet high in tree or shrub and is built of twigs and lined with rootlets, leaves, and other vegetation.

Eggs: 2-8, usually 4-5; 51 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 21-25 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 25 days old.

Should You Get a Quaker Parrots?

2007-12-27T14:47:00.000-08:00

If you live in a warm climate, you may have noticed a big flock of noisy gray and green parrots flying about. These birds are Quaker parrots, a popular pet for many bird lovers. Because Quakers are so hardy, they have colonized in quite a few spots, including Florida and California. These little guys can really do some damage to your local farm crops. Concerns about crop destruction and competition with native birds have caused lawmakers to ban ownership of Quakers in quite a few areas. Before you decide to buy a Quaker, make sure these birds are legal in your area.

The gregarious Quaker is a fairly good talker. While these birds do not have the mimicking ability of some of the large parrots, such as the African gray, they do develop large vocabularies fairly easily. One major drawback to the Quaker's vocal nature is its noisy vocalization. Although quite a few people keep this bird in their apartments, it isn't an ideal apartment pet because it will disturb your neighbors when it cheerfully greets each new day with a slightly raucous squawk.

Since the Quaker is actually a member of the conure family, it is no surprise that these birds are often cuddly and playful. They are an excellent choice for a family pet, since they rarely bond so strongly to one person that they refuse to allow anyone else to handle them. Quakers are usually quite happy to hang out on a favorite person's shoulder and chatter away to themselves.

Since Quakers have been popular pets for many years, several color mutations have been developed. The normal gray and green Quaker is quite attractive, but you may prefer a blue, yellow, pied, albino, cinnamon or lutino bird instead. Most of these mutations are much more expensive than normal Quakers and are harder to find. Luckily, your bird's color will not affect its ability to be a wonderful pet.

Your bird's cage should be about two feet wide by three feet long. Be sure to shop for a cage made with heavy wire, since this parrot's strong beak can easily bend cage bars that are made with the lightweight wire that is suitable for parakeets or cockatiels. Quakers aren't tidy birds, so if you are concerned about keeping your floors clean, you should look for a cage with a metal apron that is designed to catch seeds and feathers or you should shop for an acrylic cage.

Quaker parrots like to chew, so you should plan to buy bird toys on a regular basis. If your bird doesn't have enough toys and doesn't get enough human interaction, he may start to pluck out his feathers. This behavior is common in Quakers, especially when they are bored.

If you want a bird that is cuddly, playful and talkative, then the Quaker parrot may be the ideal bird for you. Just keep in mind that this bird can be on the loud side, so you may want to meet a few Quakers and listen to their vocalizations before you decide to bring home a Quaker of your own.

Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)

2007-12-27T14:28:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in mangroves, swamps and marshes, lakes, rivers, lagoons, and other wetland habitats (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from southwestern British Columbia, Washington, southern Idaho, Montana, east-central Alberta, Saskatchewan, southern Manitoba, the Great Lakes region, southern Quebec, and Nova Scotia south to Florida, the Gulf coast states, Baja California, and Mexico. Generally winters from Mexico, Baja California, the Gulf coast, and Florida north to western Washington, southern Oregon, southern Nevada, northern Utah, Colorado, southern Texas, the southern Great Lakes region, and southern New England (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Light gray wings and neck, white underneath. Black on crown and back. Compare immature with immature Yellow-crowned Night-Heron; note comparatively shorter legs in flight.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies. Nest is placed 15-30 feet (and at the extreme, up to 160 feet) high in tree and is built of twigs, reeds, and branches.

Eggs: 1-7, usually 3-5; 52 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 24-26 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 42-49 days old.

Green Heron (Butorides virescens)

2007-12-27T14:23:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in swamps, ponds, rivers, marshes, or lakes, usually in or near forested areas.

Distribution: Breeding range includes Baja California, Mexico, and most of the United States; more locally distributed or absent in areas of the Rocky Mountains and Great Plains. Also breeds in New Brunswick and in the extreme southern portions of the southern tier of Canadian provinces (i.e., British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec). Generally winters from southern Arizona, southern Texas, the Gulf coast states, and South Carolina south throughout its breeding range; also winters locally on the west coast north to southwestern British Columbia (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Except for the Least Bittern, this is our smallest heron. Note white streak down center of throat and neck, reddish or chestnut color on sides & back of neck, and otherwise dark green (or bluish-gray) back and head.

Nest Habits: More likely to breed singly than other herons, but sometimes may breed in small colonies. Nest may be placed up to 30 feet high in small tree or thicket, and consists of a platform of sticks that is lined with twigs, vines, and other vegetation.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 2-4; 38 millimeter; pale bluish-green or light green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 21-25 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 34-35 days old.

How to Choose a Good Bird Breeder

2007-12-23T13:28:00.000-08:00

So, you want to buy a bird. All you have to do is find a breeder and give him or her the money, right? Actually, there are some very disreputable bird breeders out there. To be sure you get a healthy, well adjusted bird, you will need to be sure you have chosen a good breeder.

The first thing you should look for when you are searching for a reputable bird breeder is whether the breeder can offer references. A good breeder has a lot of happy customers and some of them will be glad to offer a reference. Of course, the longest list of references in the world isn't very useful if you don't take the time to call one or two of them. Be sure you actually check a few references before you buy a bird.

Next, talk to the breeder. Ask about the type of diet the birds are being fed, whether the aviary is open or closed and whether the breeder shows birds or attends bird marts with birds.

If the breeder only feeds a seed diet, you may be buying a bird with nutritional deficiencies. Seed diets should be supplemented with fresh fruit, vegetables and beans or pellets.

A closed aviary is an aviary that does not buy new birds and does not have people wandering in and out. This means you won't be able to walk through and look at the parent birds, but it also means other people aren't able to walk through either. This means that diseases will not be easily transmitted to the aviary from someone who has visited several breeders.

If a breeder shows birds or attends bird marts, there is a chance that the birds may have picked up a disease. Ask the breeder if the birds that leave the aviary are quarantined when they come back.

After you are satisfied with the breeder, find out how the birds are being handfed. A handfed bird is not necessarily going to be bonded to people and tame if the breeder has been tube feeding babies. Tube feeding takes only a few seconds and there isn't much time for interaction. If the breeder does tube feed, ask if the birds go immediately back into their cages or if they are socialized after they are fed.

When you visit the breeder, look at the baby birds' cages. Of course, they should be clean and have fresh food and water in them, but there should also be some toys. Baby birds need toys to help them grow intellectually.

Then, don't forget to look at the condition of the birds themselves. They should be alert and well groomed and their vents (the area right above their tails on their undersides) should be clean. When you hold one of the birds, be sure to feel his breastbone. If it feels prominent and there doesn't seem to be any meat on the sides, the bird is too thin. This can simply be because he is just weaning, but the breeder shouldn't be selling him in this condition.

Once you're satisfied with the breeder, you can finally start making a much more enjoyable choice. You can decide which of the breeder's baby birds you will take home.

Cattle Egret(Bubulcus ibis)

2007-12-23T13:27:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in actively grazed pastures and grasslands; also on lawns or along roadsides, and occasionally in marshes or flooded agricultural fields (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from central California, eastern Oregon, southern Idaho, Utah, Colorado, North Dakota, the Great Lakes region, northern Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Maine south to Baja California, Mexico, the Gulf coast, and Florida. Generally winters from Florida, the Gulf coast states, coastal Texas, and western Oregon and northern California south throughout its breeding range (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Of the three typically white egrets (Cattle, Snowy, and Great Egrets), the Cattle egret is the smallest. In breeding season, note orangish feathers on crown, back, and lower neck; bill and leg color also more red or reddish-orange at this time of year. During the non-breeding season, bill and legs are yellowish in color. Compare also with immature Little Blue Heron.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons. Nest is usually placed up to 12 feet high in small tree and consists of a platform of sticks, vines, and twigs.

Eggs: 2-6, usually 3-4; 48 millimeter; pale bluish-green or bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 22-26 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 30 days old.

Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)

2007-12-23T13:24:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in marshes, ponds, and lakes; also in lagoons and other shallow coastal habitats (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeds south of a line running from eastern Oregon and northern California through southeastern Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, northeastern Wisconsin, southern Ontario, and northwestern Ohio, to the Atlantic coast (north to Maine); breeding range extends south into Baja California and Mexico. Generally winters from northern California, southwestern Arizona, the Gulf coast, and coastal South Carolina south throughout its breeding range (A.O.U. 1998). Post-breeding dispersal in late summer and early fall results in birds appearing at inland locations far north of their breeding range.

Field Marks: Snowy white plumage, dark legs, black bill, and yellow feet (sometimes called golden slippers). Smaller than Great Egret.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons and egrets. Nest is placed on the ground or, more typically, up to 30 feet high in shrub or tree and consists of a platform of sticks lined with twigs and rushes.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 3-5; 43 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 20-24 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 30 days old.

Teaching Your Bird Simple Tricks

2007-12-22T12:55:00.000-08:00

While most people think of pet birds as animals that just sit in the cage or perch on someone's shoulder and say the occasional funny phrase, some birds can actually learn quite a few interesting and entertaining tricks. While not all birds are able to perform elaborate tricks, you should be able to teach your bird a few simple tricks.

One of the easiest tricks you can teach a young bird is to play dead. To teach this trick, you first need to accustom him to having his head and back touched. When he doesn't mind being touched anymore, it is time for the next step.

Let him perch on one hand and cup your other hand around his back, gently cradling his head between your thumb and forefinger. Then, gently tilt him over onto his back. If he struggles, stand him back upright immediately. Gradually increase the amount of time you leave him on his back until he is willing to stay in that position for several seconds without being restrained.

While most birds can learn to play dead, conures excel at it because some of them lie on their backs naturally to sleep. In fact, teaching your bird to pretend he is tucking himself in for the night is a trick that can be learned quickly once he knows how to play dead. Gently cover his body with a small, light piece of cloth and say 'Goodnight'. Some birds will grasp the cloth immediately and tug it higher with their beaks, as if they are tucking themselves in. Others need a bit of encouragement.

Another fun trick you can teach your bird is to play ring toss. Most birds naturally throw things around, so all you need to do is reinforce this behavior. Encourage him to throw the rings without aiming at a target at first. After he becomes accustomed to tossing the rings, you can begin working with him to toss the rings onto a short dowel screwed onto a base in an upside down 'T' shape.

If your bird picks up the ring toss trick readily, you can teach him to shoot hoops with a small, light ball and a ring fastened onto a dowel to form the basketball pole and hoop. Since the technique is so similar, most birds that have learned to play ring toss pick up basketball in a matter of days.

Finally, if your bird is a talker, you can teach him quite a few clever vocal tricks. One favorite is to teach him to respond to people who ask if he can talk with 'I can talk. Can you fly?' Another trick that astonishes people who aren't used to the intelligence of birds is to teach your bird to request the treat he wants to eat by name. This trick can be taught by telling your bird the name of each treat as you offer it to him. He will quickly pick up the names of his favorite treats and begin to ask for them by name.

Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)

2007-12-22T12:53:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in ponds, lakes, streams, swamps, marshes, and other fresh-water habitats (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeds locally, within an area extending from Mexico and Baja California north to southern California, north-central Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, southeastern Missouri, southern Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Alabama, southern Georgia, and the Atlantic coast north to Maine. Generally winters in southwestern California, Mexico, along the Gulf coast, and along the Atlantic coast north to Virginia (A.O.U. 1998). Post-breeding dispersal in late summer and early fall results in birds appearing at inland locations far north of their breeding range.

Field Marks: Overall dark, slate blue color in adult; during breeding season, reddish tint to head. Bicolored bill. Immatures are mostly white, but in second year take on a pied appearance during the molt to the adult plumage.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons. Nest is placed up to 40 feet high in bush or tree and consists of a platform of sticks.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 2-5; 44 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 20-23 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 42-49 days old.

Tricolored Heron (Egretta tricolor)

2007-12-22T12:51:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Usually found in coastal marshes, but also more locally further inland in swamps, lakes, and rivers (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeds in coastal habitats of Baja California, Mexico, the Gulf coast, Florida, and the Atlantic coast north to Maine; also at inland locations in New Mexico, Texas, and Arkansas. Generally winters within its breeding range along the coast; on the Atlantic coast, winters north to about New Jersey (A.O.U. 1998). Post-breeding dispersal in late summer and early fall results in birds appearing at inland locations far north of their breeding range.

Field Marks: Head, most of neck, back, and wings generally a dark blue color. White underneath, including foreneck.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, sometimes in association with other herons. Nest is placed on the ground or, more typically, up to 15-30 feet high in shrub or tree; nest consists of a platform of sticks and twigs lined with grass and leaves.

Eggs: 3-7, usually 3-4; 44 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 21-25 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 35 days old.

Stress Could Kill Your Bird

2007-12-21T03:22:00.000-08:00

One of the worst things you can do to your pet bird is to subject him to stress. Stress can literally kill a bird that would otherwise live a long and healthy life. How can you avoid stressing your bird and what can you do for him if he does become stressed?

You should be sure that you recognize signs of stress in birds so that you can alleviate stressful situations immediately. Obviously, a bird that has his mouth open and seems to be struggling for breath is stressed. However, he can also show less obvious signs of stress, such as standing very tall and skinny on his perch or eating less than he normally would.

Since identifying signs of mild stress can be a bit challenging, you should look for things that could cause everyday stress and remove them from your bird's environment. That cartoon where Tweetie is fluttering about his cage in alarm just because the cat has walked into the room is pretty accurate. Cats can stress caged birds to death by simply staring at them. Dogs barking constantly beside a bird's cage or jumping at the cage and yapping can also be quite stressful.

Vermin, such as mice, are especially dangerous, since they cause stress by startling birds when they run across the room at night and can carry diseases. If your bird is a messy eater and drops food in the bottom of his tray, mice may actually climb into the cage. If you see signs of a rodent problem, you will need to eradicate it immediately. However, be sure your exterminator is aware of how to kill pests without killing your birds.

Sometimes the things you do for your bird can stress him. While you may think you are providing a wonderful new toy, your bird may be under the impression that you have placed a scary predator in his cage. Never place new toys in the cage immediately. Instead, let your bird become accustomed to the toy by hanging it outside the cage. When you notice him trying to play with the toy through the bars, it is time to move it into the cage.

Of course, it goes without saying that moving to a new cage can be stressful for a bird. After all, even people get stressed out by a move to a new home. Instead of putting your bird directly in his new cage, introduce him to it gradually. Place the new cage beside the old cage and let your bird out of his cage. Allow him to walk over to the new cage and explore the outside of it. If he doesn't go to the cage, place his favorite treat on it to tempt him.

Once he is comfortable with the outside of the cage, place treats inside the cage to coax him in. Let him explore the inside of the cage for a few days before you finally switch him over to the new cage permanently.

Finally, don't chase your bird and pick him up over and over if he flutters down from your arm. After you catch him two or three times, put him back in his cage. Being pursued and caught is very stressful for birds.

Great Egret (Ardea alba)

2007-12-21T03:19:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeida

Habitat: Found in fresh- and salt-water habitats, along lakes, rivers, streams, lagoons and estuaries, and on mudflats; occasionally forages in agricultural fields.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from central Washington and southern Idaho south into California, Nevada, southwestern Arizona, Baja California, and Mexico; also from southwestern Manitoba, South Dakota, central Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, southern Ontario, southwestern Quebec, and New England south to Florida and the Gulf states, and west to eastern Colorado and southern New Mexico. Winter range extends southward from a line running from coastal Oregon and northern California through central Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, and Texas and the Gulf coast region to coastal Maryland; occasionally found further north in winter (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Large, all white heron, with black legs and large, yellowish bill. At a distance, compare with Snowy Egret, which is smaller and has a black bill.

Nest Habits: Breeds singly or in colonies, usually in association with other herons and water birds. Nest is usually placed up to 40 feet (and sometimes up to 90 feet) high in tree and consists of a platform of sticks and twigs with little or no lining.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 3; 57 millimeter; pale blue or bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 23-26 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 42-49 days old.

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)

2007-12-21T03:13:00.001-08:00

Family: Ardeidae

Habitat: Found in fresh- and salt-water habitats, along lakes, rivers, ponds, lagoons, seacoasts, and on mudflats; occasionally forages in agricultural fields.

Distribution: Breeds south of a line running from Nova Scotia through southern Quebec, northern Ontario, northern Manitoba, central Saskatchewan, and northern Alberta to southern British Columbia; breeding range on the Pacific coast also includes all of coastal British Columbia and the southern coast of Alaska (A.O.U. 1998). Resident in the southern portion of its range; northern populations are migratory.

Field Marks: Our largest heron; generally grayish-blue in color. White head contrasts with conspicuous black stripe above eye. Two additional color phases are known: an all white form, which is found in southern Florida, and a form which is grayish-blue in color but has an all white head and is found primarily in the Florida Keys.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually in association with other herons and egrets. Nest is placed on the ground or, more typically, up to 130 feet high in tree and consists of a platform of sticks lined with twigs, mosses, pine needles, grasses, and leaves.

Eggs: 1-7, usually 3-5; 64 millimeter; pale bluish-green in color.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts about 28 days, and young are able to fly when they are approximately 56-60 days old.

How to Teach Your Bird to Talk

2007-12-19T23:20:00.000-08:00

One of the most common reasons people have for buying a pet bird is the desire for a talking pet. Most people think of the talented African grey when they picture a talking bird, but quite a few different types of birds can actually learn to talk. In fact, some finch owners say their birds learned a few simple words. Of course, not all birds talk as well or as easily as other birds.

While the African grey is certainly the best talker, Amazon parrots, Quaker parakeets, American budgies, cockatiels, Nanday conures and cockatoos are also great talkers. Lovebirds, most other conure species and Senegal parrots will usually pick up a few phrases fairly rapidly, as well.

However, no matter what bird species you choose, keep in mind that baby birds need to learn how to talk, just as human babies do. Your bird probably will not already be talking when you buy it. In fact, not all birds will learn to talk. Even those that do learn to talk do not all learn many phrases. If your sole purpose for owning a bird is to have a talker, you may want to buy an older bird that is already talking. Just be aware that a bird that is already talking may know some phrases that are not family friendly.

To teach a bird that does not already know to talk is harder than teaching a new phrase to a bird that already talks. This is because you are teaching a completely new skill. While some people try to use tapes or CDs that repeat phrases over and over again to teach their birds to talk, directly interacting with your birds works much better.

Begin by choosing a simple word or phrase. Words with the letter 'r' in them seem to be especially easy for birds to pick up, which is probably why almost every bird that talks knows the phrase 'pretty bird'. Once you choose a phrase, repeat it to your bird in a clear voice every time you interact with him.

Soon, you may begin to notice your bird sitting in a corner of his cage making sounds under his breath. This is a good sign, as it means he is practicing his speech. He will mutter quietly to himself to try to get the sounds exactly right before he attempts to repeat the word or phrase aloud.

If your bird doesn't seem interested in listening to you, try speaking in a higher than normal voice. Most birds learn more readily from someone who is not speaking in a deep baritone. Since angry people tend to talk in high, excited voices, someone swearing angrily is especially attractive to birds and they often pick up foul language quite readily.

Be sure you don't say anything you don't want your bird repeating. If he does pick up foul language, ignore him completely when he repeats the word and give him plenty of attention when he repeats more acceptable words. Sometimes, this will be enough to break him from using foul language.

If your bird is not picking up any words, you may be tempted to try to teach him to whistle. Just be aware that birds that learn to whistle may not be interested in learning to talk. However, they can be quite talented and will learn to whistle entire songs.

Finally, don't think you have to wait until your bird reaches a certain age to begin teaching him to talk. You can begin working with your bird before he is even weaned, so if you have a deposit on a baby that is still being handfed, ask the breeder to repeat a phrase like 'pretty bird' to him each time he is being fed.

Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens)

2007-12-19T23:16:00.001-08:00

Family: Fregatidae

Habitat: Nests on islands; found in coastal tropical waters.

Distribution: Coastal tropical waters of North and South America and western Africa. Ranges inland, usually after severe storms.

Field Marks: Long, deeply forked tail, dark coloration (white belly in female), and reddish-orange inflatable throat pouch of male are distinctive traits of this species.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies; nest consists of a shallow collection of woody twigs or grasses that are placed in a tree, shrub, or on the ground.

Eggs: 1, although in rare instances 2 may be laid; 68 mm; white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the egg and care for the young. Incubation lasts about 50 days, and young are able to fly about 150-200 days later.

Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga)

2007-12-19T23:14:00.001-08:00

Family: Anhingidae

Habitat: Lakes, slow-moving streams, and swamps; in fresh water.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from South America, Central America, Mexico, central and eastern Texas, the Gulf coast, and southern Florida north to southeastern Oklahoma, southern and eastern Arkansas, western Tennessee, north-central Mississippi, southern Alabama, southern Georgia, and coastal North Carolina. During the winter, Anhingas are found from central South Carolina, southern Georgia, Florida, and the Gulf coast south throughout the remainder of the breeding range (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Overall dark body plumage with greenish gloss and white spots or streaks on the wings and upper back.

Nest Habits: Breeds in small groups, usually in association with other herons and egrets. Nest of sticks or dead leaves is typically placed in a small tree.

Eggs: 1-5, usually 4; 53 millimeter; pale blue-green or blue-white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young; incubation lasts approximately 26-29 days.

Pelagic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax pelagicus)

2007-12-17T11:21:00.001-08:00

Family: Phalacrocoracidae

Habitat: Coastal waters.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from islands off Japan north to the Aleutian Islands and the Bering Sea; and from there southeastward along the west coast of North America to Baja California.

Field Marks: Body plumage mostly black with a greenish gloss. In breeding plumage, white plumes appear on side of neck and a white flank patch also appears. Compare with Red-faced Cormorant: note the Pelagic's smaller head size, less extensive red facial skin, and lack of bluish base to the bill.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, where it builds its nest of sticks, seaweeds, and grasses on rocky cliffs.

Eggs: 3-5, occasionally as many as 7; 60 millimeter; bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs; incubation lasts approximately 22-31 days. Young fledge about three months after hatching.

Brandt's Cormorant (Phalacrocorax penicillatus)

2007-12-17T10:54:00.000-08:00

Family: Phalacrocoracidae

Habitat: Coastal waters.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from southeast Alaska to the Gulf of California. Ranges at sea to nearby coastal waters.

Field Marks: Large size, overall dark coloration; note brown-buffy feathers at base of throat pouch. In breeding plumage, thin white plumes appear on head and neck and throat pouch becomes blue.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies; nests on the ground, usually in rocky areas.

Eggs: 3-6, usually 4; 62 millimeter; pale blue or white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young.

Helping Your Bird Adjusting In A New Home

2007-12-17T10:52:00.000-08:00

Moving to a new home can be stressful for a bird, especially if the bird is a hand fed baby. Luckily, if you spend some time setting everything up properly, it isn't too hard to help your bird make the adjustment to a new home.

The first thing you should do for your new bird is to place his cage in an area that does not have too much traffic and confusion. However, although you don't want him to feel like he is in the middle of everything, you also don't want to put him in an unused room where he will be neglected. Pick a spot where he can interact with you, but won't be constantly startled by loud noises and sudden movements.

If you already have another bird, you should quarantine the new arrival for 30 days. This way, if your new bird has an infectious disease, your original bird has a better chance of not catching the disease. To quarantine your bird, you should place him on another floor of the house and keep his food and water dishes separate from your original bird's dishes. If you have central air, you may not be able to truly quarantine your bird, since air ducts carry the air from one room to the next. However, quarantining the new bird is still better than immediately putting them side by side.

Next, make sure your bird is healthy. Take him to your avian veterinarian for a well bird visit. Your vet can check to be sure your new pet doesn't have contagious diseases, worms or bacterial infections. This is especially important if you have a newly weaned handfed baby bird because if the bird wasn't handfed properly, he could have a bacterial infection.

You should also be sure that your bird is eating well. If he doesn't seem to be eating during the first 24 hours, try offering him spray millet, which is basically dessert for birds. Whole grain cereal also can coax a frightened bird to eat. If you have a newly weaned baby bird that is not eating and he is making a squalling noise, he may have regressed and needs to be handfed a bit longer. Ask your breeder for assistance.

If you cannot reach your breeder, you can usually buy some hand feeding formula in pet stores. Simply mix up a very small quantity of hand feeding formula until it has the consistency of pudding and offer it to your bird on a plastic spoon. He should eat it right off the spoon.

Finally, don't be afraid to interact with your bird, but don't overdo it. You shouldn't work with him for more than 10 minutes at a time. If he flies away several times and you have to chase him and catch him, you should put him away until he calms down, since chasing and catching birds is very stressful for them. If he isn't flying away, you should still watch your bird closely for signs of stress as you work with him.

How to Care for Your Lories and Lorikeets

2007-12-16T05:01:00.000-08:00

While most birds have basically the same basic care requirements, lories and lorikeets are quite unique. The thing that sets them apart from other birds is their brush-like tongue. This tongue is designed to collect nectar from plants, while most parrots have a tongue that is perfectly suited to manipulating seeds. Because these birds require a unique diet, lories need very different care than other parrots.

The first thing you should consider when you are caring for lories or lorikeets is your bird's diet. These birds cannot survive on a seed diet. However, feeding fresh nectar can be so messy and time consuming. While this used to be the only solution for people who kept lories and lorikeets, today there are easier diet alternatives. A pelleted lory diet contains all of the nutrients your bird will need. Dry nectar also provides a less messy alternative to fresh nectar, although your birds may not enjoy it quite as much. Adding applesauce, fresh fruit and vegetables and occasional servings of fresh nectar can make your lories much happier and healthier.

If you feed your lory or lorikeet a liquid nectar diet, you may think that fresh water isn't very important. However, fresh water is a must for all birds. Imagine how you'd feel if you only drank sweet fruit juice all the time.

The next thing to consider as you prepare to keep lories or lorikeets is the cage. Although many people claim that the new diets make lories as easy to care for as other birds, they are still a bit messier. A standard cage has so many bars and little grooves that cleaning bits of fruit or runny bird droppings from the cage can be a nightmare. Instead of a standard cage, you may want to consider shopping for an acrylic birdcage. These cages are made from acrylic panels with air holes in them and can be cleaned completely in just a few minutes. If you do use a standard cage, add a plastic cage barrier to help you keep the wall behind the cage clean.

Perhaps as a result of all the fresh fruits, vegetables or nectar in their diets, lories and lorikeets tend to become quite smelly if their cages aren't changed regularly. You should plan to change papers or litter and wash out all dishes on a daily basis. The entire cage should be washed down weekly. If you stop cleaning the cage regularly, you could make your bird quite sick. All of the little pieces of fruit and vegetables that he tossed around as he was eating will become moldy. If he eats them, he could develop a bacterial infection.

Finally, just as with other birds, you should be prepared to spend time working with lories and lorikeets to keep them sweet and tame. These birds have a naturally sweet and cuddly nature and love to groom their owners, but if you never handle your lory, he could become shy and afraid of being touched.

Double-crested Cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus)

2007-12-16T04:51:00.001-08:00

Family: Phalacrocoracidae

Habitat: Freshwater lakes, rivers, and swamps; also along seacoasts.

Distribution: Breeding range includes the Bering Sea, the Aleutian Islands, and southern Alaska; it also extends from southern British Columbia and northern Alberta east across northwestern and central Saskatchewan, central Manitoba, southern James Bay, and the north shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Newfoundland; and south (often in isolated colonies) to Baja California, south-central Arizona (and south into Mexico), southern New Mexico, west-central and southern Texas, the Gulf coast, and Florida. Generally winters from Mexico, Baja California, Texas, the Gulf states, and Florida north, along the Pacific coast, to east-central Washington; further east, winter range extends north to Oklahoma, the southern Great Lakes region, Lake Ontario, and New England (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Large, orange throat pouch is diagnostic.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, where it builds its nest of twigs and grasses or weeds on a rocky surface or in a tree.

Eggs: 2-9, usually 3-4; 61 millimeter; pale blue or bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 25-29 days; young fledge when they are about 35-42 days old.

Northern Gannet (Morus bassanus)

2007-12-16T04:35:00.000-08:00

Family: Sulidae

Habitat: Nests on islands; found in pelagic waters, usually over continental shelf (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from eastern North America (e.g., islands in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, off Quebec, and in Labrador and Newfoundland) to Europe (e.g., islands around Iceland, the British Isles, northern France, and Norway. Ranges at sea to nearby areas in the northern Atlantic Ocean, extending south to Florida and west (along the Gulf coast) to Texas (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Adult plumage is all white with golden cast to head and nape and black wing tips. Immature plumage varies over a four-year period; compare especially with the smaller Brown Booby.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies; nests on the ground; nest consists of a stack of seaweed and grass.

Eggs: 1; 78 millimeter; light bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the egg and care for the young. Incubation usually lasts 42-44 days and young fledge when they are about 84-97 days old.

Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)

2007-12-14T08:39:00.001-08:00

Family: Pelecanidae

Habitat: Coastal waters.

Distribution: Coastal resident in the east from Maryland south to Florida and the Gulf Coast; and in the west from the Gulf of California north to Central California. Also breeds in coastal waters of the Bahamas, Central America, and South America. May be found north of this range to British Columbia in the west and New York or the New England states in the east (A.O.U. 1998). Vagrants have appeared at inland locations.

Field Marks: Large, long bill with pouch is characteristic of pelicans. Overall, Brown Pelicans are dark gray in color, with a black belly. The head and neck are white (usually tinged with yellow). In breeding plumage, the rear of the neck becomes a dark chestnut color and a yellow patch appears at the base of the foreneck.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, where its simple nest of grasses or sticks is placed in trees; also may nest on the ground, in which case the nest is a simple scrape lined with feathers.

Eggs: 2-4, usually 3; 76 millimeter; white.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young; incubation lasts approximately 28-30 days and young are capable of flight when they are about 71-88 days old.

American White Pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos)

2007-12-14T08:32:00.001-08:00

Family: Pelecanidae

Habitat: Primarily found in shallow lakes, rivers, or marshes, usually in freshwater habitats; winter habitat includes brackish marshes and estuaries or bays.

Distribution: Breeds locally in the western United States and western Canada, from British Columbia east to west-central Ontario south to California, Nevada, Colorado, Texas, and Minnesota. Winters in Florida, along the Gulf Coast, into Mexico and Central America, and along the Pacific Coast from California south to Baja California and Arizona (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Large, long orange bill with pouch is diagnostic. In flight, note black primaries and outer secondaries (compare with Snow Goose and Whooping Crane). Immatures told by grayish-colored head and neck.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, where its nest (a simple scrape or depression in the ground) is placed on islands in freshwater lakes or occasionally in brackish waters.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 2; 90 millimeter; white.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young; incubation lasts approximately 29-36 days and young are capable of flight when they are about 60 days old.

Sooty Shearwater (Puffinus griseus)

2007-12-13T02:41:00.001-08:00

Family: Procellariidae

Habitat: Nests on islands; found in pelagic waters.

Distribution: Breeds on islands off of Australia, New Zealand, and South America; ranges widely at sea in both the northern and southern regions of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

Field Marks: Dark above; underneath, note the silver-white coverts at the base of the primary and secondary feathers.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies.

Eggs: 1, white.

Incubation: Both parents incubate the egg and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 56 days; young are able to fly after about 100 days.

Northern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis)

2007-12-13T02:38:00.000-08:00

Family: Procellariidae

Habitat: Nests on sea cliffs or rocky islands; found in pelagic waters (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Ranges at sea in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. Breeds in the Aleutians, the Gulf of Alaska, islands in the Canadian Arctic, on Labrador, and in Newfoundland (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Thick neck, yellow bill with tubular nostrils.

Nest Habits: Breeds in colonies, usually located on cliffs.

Eggs: 1; 74 millimeter; dull white, occasionally stained with red spots.

Incubation: Approximately 50-60 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 50 days.

Clark's Grebe (Aechmophorus clarkii)

2007-12-11T22:25:00.001-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Found on lakes, marshes, and bays, and also along seacoasts in winter (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from south-central British Columbia east to southwestern Manitoba, extending southward to California, Arizona, New Mexico (it is also a resident breeder in parts of Mexico) and Colorado. Winter range extends from California to Colorado, south to southern Baja California (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Large grebe, with long, swan-like neck, and contrasting black and white colors.

Nest Habits: Nests over shallow water, on floating platform of vegetation.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 3-4; 58 millimeter; bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Approximately 23 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 63-77 days.

Western Grebe (Aechmophorus occidentalis)

2007-12-11T22:21:00.001-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Found on lakes, marshes, and bays, and also along seacoasts in winter (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from extreme southern British Columbia and central Alberta east to southern Manitoba; and south to southern California, Arizona (it is also a resident breeder in parts of Mexico), Colorado, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. Winters along the Pacific coast (southeastern Alaska south to southern Baja California and Mexico), and inland to southern Utah, New Mexico, Colorado, and western Texas (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Large grebe, with long, swan-like neck, and contrasting black and white colors.

Nest Habits: Nests over shallow water, on floating platform of vegetation.

Eggs: 2-7, usually 3-4; 58 millimeter; bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Approximately 23 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 63-77 days.

Eared Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis)

2007-12-10T01:32:00.001-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Found along lakes, ponds, rivers, and marshes; in winter also along seacoasts, bays, and estuaries.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from central interior and northeastern British Columbia and southern Yukon east across northwestern and central Alberta and southern Manitoba to western Minnesota; and south to northern Baja California, central and southeastern Arizona (and south into Mexico), and south-central Texas. Generally winters from Mexico and Central America north to southern British Columbia, northern Nevada, northern Utah, Montana, and Kansas; more uncommon or rare in the eastern U.S. (i.e., from Kansas east to Maryland, and south to the Gulf coast) during the winter (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Diagnostic marks during the breeding season include the golden ear tufts and black neck; in winter, note the gray neck and gray cheek bordered by white auricular patch and white throat (compare with Horned Grebe).

Nest Habits: Nests over shallow water, on floating platform of vegetation.

Eggs: 1-6, usually 3-5; 43 millimeter; bluish- or greenish-white in color.

Incubation: Approximately 20-22 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 21 days.

Horned Grebe (Podiceps auritus)

2007-12-10T01:25:00.000-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Found on lakes, ponds, and marshes during the breeding season or in migration; and along seacoasts, bays, and estuaries (also uncommon on inland freshwater lakes) during the winter.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from central Alaska and northern Yukon east across northwestern and southern Mackenzie and southern Keewatin to northern Manitoba; and south to eastern Washington, south-central Oregon, northeastern Idaho, northern Montana, northwestern Wyoming, northern South Dakota, the Great Lakes region, northwestern Ontario, and southeastern Quebec. Wintering range primarily limited to both coasts (from Alaska south to northern Baja California, and from Nova Scotia through Florida and west to Texas) (A.O.U. 1998); also uncommonly on inland lakes and rivers, where sizable concentrations may occasionally be found.

Field Marks: Diagnostic marks during the breeding season include the golden ear tufts and reddish neck; in winter, note the white cheek patch (compare with Black-necked Grebe).

Nest Habits: Nests over shallow water, on floating platform of vegetation.

Eggs: 3-7; usually 4-7; 44 millimeter; bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Approximately 22-25 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 45-60 days.

Ten Reasons Why Birds Make Good Pets

2007-12-09T16:23:00.001-08:00

There are ten simple reasons why you should consider having bird as your pet. Here they are:

Birds are intelligent animals.
They are relatively easy to care for.
Birds are fairly simple to train.
They require minimal grooming.
Birds are extremely social creatures.
Birds are fairly inexpensive to feed.
They can be kept in a small space.
Birds are not considered "pets" at most rental properties.
Pet birds are attractive to look at.
They are long-lived companions.

I promise I'll discuss these points in the details later. But for now, what do you think? Birds do make cool pets, don't they?

Red-necked Grebe (Podiceps grisegena)

2007-12-09T14:00:00.000-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Found on lakes, ponds, rivers, and marshes during the breeding season and in migration; and along seacoasts, bays, and estuaries (and occasionally inland lakes) during the winter.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from western and central Alaska and central Yukon east across northwestern and southern MacKenzie, northwestern Saskatchewan, and central Manitoba to western and central Ontario; and south to the northern U.S. (from central Washington and southwestern Oregon east to the Great Lakes region); considered to be a rare breeder in the northeastern U.S., and in southern Ontario and southern Quebec. Wintering range primarily limited to both coasts (from Alaska south to California, and from Newfoundland south to South Carolina); casual inland (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: reddish neck, large white cheek patch, and dark cap are diagnostic in the breeding season. In winter, note the size which is larger than a Black-necked Grebe, and smaller than a Western Grebe and there’s a crescent-shaped white patch on side of face.

Nest Habits: Nests over shallow water, on floating platform of vegetation.

Eggs: 2-6, usually 4-5; 54 millimeter; bluish-white in color.

Incubation: Approximately 22-23 days, by both sexes; young are able to fly after about 70 days.

Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps)

2007-12-09T10:36:00.001-08:00

Family: Podicipedidae

Habitat: Encountered on almost any size body of water (i.e., lakes, ponds, streams, or marshes) and also in a variety of habitats ranging from dense emergent vegetation to open water.

Distribution: Breeding range extends from central and northeastern British Columbia and south-central Mackenzie east across northern Manitoba and central Ontario to southern Quebec, Maine, and Nova Scotia; and southward into Middle and South America. Winter distribution in North America occurs throughout most of its breeding range, southward from southern British Columbia, the central United States, Lakes Erie and Ontario, and New York (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: A brownish grebe. In breeding season, has black ring around pale, chicken-like bill; and a black chin and throat. Ring around bill absent in winter.

Nest Habits: Nests over water on floating platform of vegetation, which is usually attached to reeds or other emergent vegetation.

Eggs: 3-10, usually 5-7; 43 millimeter; bluish- or greenish-white in color, later stained with brown during incubation.

Incubation: Approximately 23 days, mostly by female; young are carried on the parents' back.

Common Loon (Gavia immer)

2007-12-08T07:50:00.000-08:00

Family: Gaviidae

Habitat: Found on lakes, ponds, rivers, and seacoasts and associated bays and estuaries (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from Alaska east across Yukon, northwestern and southern Mackenzie, central Keewatin, northern Manitoba, northern Ontario, southern Baffin Island, and Labrador to Newfoundland; and south to Nevada, western Wyoming, northern North Dakota, the Great Lakes region, northern New York, southern New England, and Nova Scotia. In winter can be found on the Pacific coast (Aleutian Islands south to Baja California), the Atlantic coast (from Newfoundland south to Florida), and on the Gulf coast south to Texas (A.O.U. 1998). In the summer, non-breeding plumaged Common Loons occasionally are found south of known breeding range.

Field Marks: This is the loon that most novice birders and non-birders are familiar with. Bill is thick, long, and pointed; in the breeding season bill it is black, but becomes grayer in winter. In the breeding season, the blackish crown and nape encircle neck in a pattern reminiscent of a barber pole; in the winter, white indentation on neck is the only remnant of this feature. Observers should study this neck pattern closely as it will aid in identification of winter-plumaged loons along the coast, where more than one species may be present simultaneously. Checkered pattern on back in breeding season is replaced with dark brown coloration in winter.

Nest Habits: Nests on the ground, usually on the shoreline of an island; nest may be a simple scrape or it may be placed on a mat of grasses, twigs, and other vegetation.

Eggs: 1-3, usually 2; 89 millimeter; olive-green to dark brown in color, with dark brown markings.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 26-31 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 75-80 days old.

Pacific Loon (Gavia Pacifica)

2007-12-08T07:47:00.000-08:00

Family: Gaviidae

Habitat: Breeds in tundra and taiga habitats; also frequents seacoasts and associated bays and estuaries; and, less commonly, lakes and rivers (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from the Arctic coast of Alaska and the Arctic islands south to southern Alaska, southwestern Yukon, southern Mackenzie, northeastern Alberta, northern Manitoba, northern Ontario, and northwestern Quebec. Generally winters along the Pacific coast of North America, from Alaska to Baja California and Mexico, and less commonly inland to Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas. Elsewhere it would be rare to find.

Field Marks: Grayish head and neck and iridescent throat patch (usually purple, but may seem like black or green) are characteristic of breeding plumage. In winter, head and neck are pale gray, with a darker border around the white throat; this color pattern is absent in Red-throated Loon. A thin, brownish neck strap is seen in some birds.

Nest Habits: Nests on the ground, usually on a mound of aquatic vegetation and mud.

Eggs: 1-2, usually 2; 76 millimeter; brownish in color, with brown markings.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 23-25 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 60-65 days old.

Red-throated Loon (Gavia Stellata)

2007-12-08T07:43:00.000-08:00

Family: Gaviidae

Habitat: Found on tundra lakes and ponds, along seacoasts and associated bays and estuaries, and occasionally on lakes and rivers (A.O.U. 1998).

Distribution: Breeding range extends from coastal Alaska east through central Yukon, Mackenzie, and the Arctic islands to Greenland; and south to Vancouver Island (along the Pacific coast), northern Saskatchewan, Hudson Bay, and northern Newfoundland. Generally winters in coastal areas; in the west from Alaska south to Baja California and Mexico; and in the east from Newfoundland south to Florida; rarely on the Gulf coast (A.O.U. 1998).

Field Marks: Grayish face and neck, with red throat patch. In winter, has pale gray crown and nape, white cheek and throat. Best field mark is the bill, thinner than in Common Loon and usually held at a slightly upturned angle.

Nest Habits: Nests on the ground, either in a depression or on a mound of mud and plants.

Eggs: 1-3, usually 2; 73 millimeter; olive-green to dark brown in color.

Incubation: Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. Incubation lasts approximately 24-29 days; young are capable of flight when they are about 49-51 days old.

How to Feed Your Bird?

2007-12-06T21:56:00.000-08:00

Feeding a bird is easy. After all, you just toss some seeds in a bowl and give them some water and you're done, right? Actually, if you want a healthy bird, you will need to do a bit more than that. There are quite a few different bird diets you can choose from.

Safflower Seed

Bird seed has been the diet of choice for many years, but it is no longer very popular with many bird lovers. However, there is actually nothing wrong with bird seed if it is used in combination with other types of food. Millet and safflower seeds are better for birds than sunflower seeds, which are high in fat and can cause obesity and related diseases in parrots that only eat sunflower seeds. If you feed seeds to your birds, you should make sure that the seeds do not comprise more than 30 percent of your bird's diet.

Beans and brown rice are considered to be a more natural diet for most parrots. After all, the seed diet they are fed as cage birds is not what they'd be eating in the wild. However, both beans and rice are hard to feed, since they cannot be left in the cage for long periods of time without becoming spoiled. ESpecially formulated pellets are another type of feed for birds. Pellets are supposed to contain all the nutrients your bird needs and are often billed as complete diets. However, pellets are often very uniform in appearance and taste. Some bird lovers feel that pellets can be boring for birds to eat if they have no other types of food. Other bird lovers are concerned that a processed feed cannot be as healthy for their pets as fresh food.

The best diet for a pet bird is probably a blend of all the available types of food. Separate cups for seeds and pellets enable your bird to easily select the food he wants to eat each day. Although many people are concerned that their birds will ignore the pellets and only eat the seeds, a surprising number of birds will eat food from both dishes.

Ideally, you should also include beans, brown rice, fresh fruit, nuts and produce in your bird's diet. To keep your bird from eating spoiled food, place an additional cup filled with these nutritious treats in the cage each morning and remove it an hour later. Your bird will quickly learn to head for the bowl as soon as you put it in his cage. Some people refrigerate the left over food after they remove the treat bowl and then serve it to their birds again in the evening, but this can lead to problems with bacteria. If your bird is wasting a lot of his fresh food in the morning, place less food in the bowl and provide him with a second serving of fresh food for about an hour in the evening.

Finally, many people feed their birds whatever they are eating for dinner. If you decide to feed your bird from the table, just be aware that certain foods, such as avocado, are actually lethal for birds to ingest.

How to Stop Your Bird from Biting

2007-12-05T00:59:00.000-08:00

One of the biggest problems bird owners have with their pets is the tendency birds have to bite. Birds bite for a variety of reasons, which makes breaking this bad habit a bit of a challenge. Luckily, it is often possible to stop birds from biting.

Newly weaned baby birds often turn from adorable cuddle bugs to vampire like little creatures literally overnight. The shock of picking up that sweet baby, only to end up with bloody hands, has caused more than one bird owner to decide to never handle his bird again. Since this is one type of biting that is usually possible to break, it's a shame to give up on your newly weaned bird.

Although he doesn't have teeth, your baby is going through something similar to a teething stage. He is exploring his surroundings with his beak and often doesn't realize the damage he is inflicting on his owner.

Unfortunately, older birds that bite are a bit harder to work with. There are several reasons they start biting, including fear, dominance, aggression and jealousy. Of the four, fear biting is probably the most likely to be stopped, as you simply have to teach your bird to trust you. Dominance biting is also usually curable.

When a bird is sitting on your forearm and bites your hand or arm, correction is easy. Simply drop your arm straight down about six inches. Make sure the movement is fairly rapid. You want to cause your bird to lose his balance enough that he stops biting, but not so much that he falls off your arm and injures himself. Repeat this every time your bird bites you. Eventually, he will associate biting people with feeling like he is about to fall and he should stop.

Of course, this technique does not work if your bird is sitting on your shoulder and giving you a new earring hole or biting your face. This is why you should never allow your bird to climb above your elbow. Birds with dominance or aggression issues are especially problematic when they are perched on their owner's shoulder, since they feel equal or superior when they are at eye level.

Distraction is also a useful technique with biters. Teach your bird to step up and down on command. If he begins to bite, hold out a perch and give him the 'step up' command. Stepping onto the perch should distract him from biting. Another great way to distract biting birds is to offer a chew toy or a crunchy treat, such as a carrot. This works especially well for teething baby birds.

If your bird has dominance or aggression problems, there is one more good technique for controlling biting. Oddly enough, it has nothing to do with his beak. Simply check to see if his wings have grown out. If so, clip them. He will feel less confident and won't attack as readily.

Finally, if all else fails, you can try consulting a bird behaviorist. The behaviorist may be able to pinpoint the cause of the behavior, such as jealousy over a new person in your life.

What does Hand Feeding Unweaned Birds Actually Means?

2007-12-03T23:10:00.000-08:00

If you think that hand feeding means holding some seeds or pellets in your hand and convincing your bird to eat them, you are not alone. Quite a few other people think the same thing. However, hand feeding actually involves feeding a baby bird that is not yet able to eat on its own a soft diet. Most bird breeders use a specially designed formula for baby birds, but some breeders prefer to make their own hand-feeding formula.

A hand fed baby bird is usually a much better pet than a parent raised bird. However, most people don't realize exactly how hard and time consuming it is to hand feed birds. If you have ever raised a child, think back to the first few weeks of your baby's life. Remember feeling as though you'd never be able to sleep again? What about those 3 am feedings? You probably felt overwhelmed by the responsibility of keeping that tiny, fragile being alive and healthy.

Bird breeders face many of the same challenges new parents face, except they are responsible for a baby that can be as small as a thumbnail. In addition, breeders rarely have a break from raising miniscule newborns. Another pair of birds is always going to nest and not all of them are good parents. To keep a day old baby bird from dying when it is abandoned, most breeders will pull out their alarm clocks so they will wake up in time for feedings every two hours until the baby is a week old.

When most people hand feed a bird for the first time, they are either finishing the hand feeding of their six to eight week old baby bird or they are trying to save their first clutch of baby birds after the parents abandoned them. They probably have never seen a bird being hand fed or have only had one quick lesson from a pet store employee or bird breeder and they don't even know what equipment they need.

Fortunately, getting the supplies to hand feed baby birds is usually fairly simple. You will need a brooder, a hand feeding syringe, hand feeding formula, a cooking thermometer, bedding material and a way to mix and heat the formula. Few people have a brooder sitting around the house, but it is simple to make your own brooder in an emergency. You will need an aquarium or plastic pet habitat and a heating pad with a low setting.

Place the heating pad in a draft free location and plug it in on the low setting. Check it after about 15 minutes to be sure it has not gotten too hot. Once you are sure the low setting is working properly, place the aquarium or pet habitat on top of the heating pad, leaving a few inches off of the pad so the baby bird can move away if he gets too hot. Line the container with paper towels or a cloth baby diaper. Your brooder is ready to go.

Now that your baby bird can stay warm and safe, it is time to try hand feeding. There are two things you must remember:

1. Never squirt food into the wrong side of the bird's mouth. You could get food into his lungs. His esophagus is on his right side, which means that when he is facing you, the food goes from your right to your left.

2. Never let the food get too cold or too hot. It should stay between 102 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

Mix the handfeeding formula according to the manufacturer directions. Basically, you want it to be as thick as a slightly watery pudding. Heat the formula and test the temperature. If it is too hot, you can injure your baby bird. Place the baby bird on a paper towel on your table facing you. Fill the syringe, being careful not to suck up air instead of formula. Grasp the syringe in your right hand and gently place the tip in your bird's mouth so that it is aimed from right to left.

Slowly squeeze the syringe so that a bit of food goes into his mouth. Wait for him to swallow before giving him more food. Do not overfeed him. Older babies will usually back away when they are full, but newly hatched babies will not be able to do so. You can gently feel the crop to see if it is beginning to feel slightly firm, like a stress ball. If it is too firm, you are overfeeding your baby.

Once your bird is fed, tuck him back into his brooder. He will need to eat again in two hours if he is under a week. Two week old babies need four feedings a day and at four weeks you can drop to three feedings a day. Don't be in a hurry to wean your babies. They may need to be hand fed for as long as twelve weeks, especially if they are one of the larger parrot species.

Speaking Your Bird Languange

2007-12-02T02:11:00.001-08:00

Understanding what your pets are telling you can be a real challenge, even if they can talk. After all, few parrots communicate their feelings with words, although at least one African gray has been known to loudly announce, 'I'm bored!' when he were being neglected. Luckily your bird's body language speaks just as loudly as he does, allowing you to understand exactly how he is feeling.

One of the most important reasons for understanding what your bird is thinking is that you can often avoid getting a painful bite if you know he is agitated or scared. It is easy to tell when your bird is petrified with fear. He stands very tall and makes himself as skinny as possible. His eyes are dilated, but he is not moving at all. He acts as if he thinks that if he makes himself as skinny as possible and doesn't move, then the thing that is scaring him will overlook him.

If you reach out to pick up your bird when he is standing like this, he may break his paralysis to lash out at you in terror. Instead, squat down until he is a bit higher than you. Then, look right at him and close your eyes for several seconds. Slowly open and close your eyes, speaking softly to him the entire time. Your bird should begin to relax. This is because birds always feel more secure when they are higher than everyone else and they consider blinking to be a sign of trust. When your bird is relaxed, you may still want to be a bit cautious about handling him, as he may feel a bit edgy and resentful about being scared.

An angry bird will have extremely dilated eyes. His head may weave back and forth in an almost snakelike motion and he may be vocalizing loudly. He will be leaning slightly forward so he can attack more easily. The feathers around his neck will stick up like he is a bristling cat. When your bird is angry, you should let him calm down before approaching him. Try distracting him with his favorite treat, but make sure you don't let him get close to your hands or you may get a painful bite as a thank you for the treat.

An excited bird has the same big, dilated pupils that an angry bird has. He will probably be bobbing his head and may also have his neck feathers ruffled. If he is very excited, his whole body may be moving a bit. He will probably be quite loud and may revert to some ear piercing screams. Even if he is happy instead of angry, his emotions are so volatile that he may still bite you unexpectedly. Wait for him to be a little less excited before handling him.

Finally, a contented bird will perch with one leg tucked up under him. He will have a relaxed posture, as if he is slouching slightly. He will groom himself right in front of you and may even stretch out a wing for a few seconds. As long as you don't make a sudden move that startles him, you won't need to worry about him lashing out.

Which Bird Suits You?

2007-11-30T06:57:00.000-08:00

Birds can be intelligent, enjoyable companions, but choosing the wrong bird can really cause heartache and frustration. How do you choose the right pet bird for you and your family? Before you try to decide which species of bird you want, you may want to think about whether a bird is really the right type of pet for you.

Many people decide to buy a bird because they want to have a pet that provides some company, but doesn't require a lot of time and energy to take care of. Actually, caring for a bird properly may not be quite as hard for caring for a dog, but it involves a bit more than tossing some seed in the cage every day.

Birds need to have the papers or litter in the bottom of the cage changed daily and the entire cage should be washed down once a week to keep it clean. Also, if your bird has been handfed, you will need to spend some time interacting with it each day to keep it tame and friendly.

Yellow canary

If you don't have a lot of time to spend with your bird, you may want to consider finches or canaries. Although these little birds will be tamer if you spend time with them, they won't pine away if they don't have human interaction. They do scatter seeds a bit, but are not as messy as most other birds, so you will have less clean up, as well. Their pleasant vocalizations make these birds the ideal choice for apartment dwellers.

Parakeet

If you want to have a bird that you can interact with, but you don't have a lot of room for cages and equipment, you may want to take a look at lovebirds, parakeets or cockatiels. These birds are all excellent pets for first time bird owners. Although they are louder than finches, these birds are not unbearably loud. Most apartment dwellers do not have trouble with the neighbors over the vocalizations of their lovebirds, parakeets or cockatiels.

Quacker Parrots

If you feel that a lovebird or cockatiel isn't enough of a parrot for you, you may want to look at mid-size parrots, such as Senegal parrots and conures. Most of these birds are entertaining and cuddly pets. However, they can be loud enough to cause problems for apartment dwellers. The brighter conures, such as the sun conure, can be especially loud. Unfortunately, their loud vocalizations do not mean that they have the extensive vocabularies and clear speech that large parrots have. If you are looking for a mid-size parrot that talks well, the Nanday conure or the Quaker parrot are good, but loud, choices.

For people looking for a great talker, larger parrots are the best choice. However, just keep in mind that even African grays do not always develop extensive vocabularies. Every bird is an individual. Larger parrots have the intelligence of a toddler and need plenty of mental stimulation to keep them happy, so you will need to be prepared to spend plenty of time with your bird.

How can you tell if your bird is sick?

2007-11-27T06:19:00.001-08:00

When you're sick everyone knows it just by glancing at you. Your red, runny nose, feverish eyes and downright listless attitude are surefire clues that you are ill. It should be just as easy to identify a sick bird, right?

Actually, by the time your bird is sick enough for you to see his symptoms at a glance, he is dangerously ill and it may be too late to save him. Birds hide their symptoms as long as possible. This is probably because in the wild a sick animal is the one the other animals hunt down first. You will need to learn to identify sick birds by paying close attention to the less obvious symptoms a newly sick bird shows.

When a bird is sick, he will often eat a bit less than normal. You should know how much your bird usually eats so that you can be aware of a lack of appetite. This is especially important if your bird ignores foods he normally considers to be treats, such as spray millet.

Another sign of illness is your bird's vocalizations. If your bird usually wakes you up each morning with his song and spends much of the day chattering and then he suddenly stops chattering or talks much less than he normally does, he could be sick.

Birds also become less active when they are feeling ill. A bird that normally plays with three toys at the same time or does laps around his cage for hours on end is healthy and happy. If that same bird suddenly stops playing or moving around, look closely for other signs of illness.

As you observe your well bird, you may notice that he often sits with one leg tucked up as he sleeps. When a bird holds on to the perch with both feet while he is resting, he is so off balance or weak that he can't stay upright by holding on the perch with one foot.

Of course, nasal discharge or constant sneezing can also mean that your bird is ill. If he sneezes once or twice after digging around in his food tray or preening himself and then stops, you don't need to panic. He probably just got some dust in his nostrils.

Next, remember that a well bird is a clean bird. If you notice your bird is not preening himself or that he is sitting with his down feathers poking through from beneath and is not tidying himself up, he may be very sick. The exception to this is the Pionus parrot. For some reason, these little guys are not unduly worried about having their down feathers show.

Finally, don't forget to look for the most obvious clue to bird illness, his droppings. Normally, birds have a fairly solid gray dropping with a smallish white center. Ill birds may have droppings that are almost all liquid and are lighter in color than they normally are.

If you suspect that your bird is ill, be sure to contact your veterinarian for assistance. A slightly sick bird can become very ill in less than a day if he has a serious illness.

What is the right toy for your bird?

2007-11-23T04:14:00.001-08:00

With their strong beaks and active minds, it is no wonder that birds quickly grow unhappy if they are sitting in an empty cage. Since some birds become pluckers and pull out the majority of their feathers when they are bored, it is important that you give birds toys to keep them happy and healthy.

One of the most essential things you should consider when choosing bird toys is whether the toys are the right size for your bird. Toys that are designed for small birds are not always safe for large birds, since their larger, more powerful beaks could break pieces off of toys that were meant for smaller birds.

If you have smaller birds, Olympic rings and swings are extremely popular toys. In fact, if you put both toys in the cage, some of the more active birds will try to swing on both toys at once. Some bigger birds enjoy swings, too, but the majority of them don't seem to be quite as fond of swings as little birds. If there is enough room, ladders are a favorite with birds of all sizes.

Larger birds enjoy puzzle and maze toys, especially if their favorite nuts are in the toys. They also like toys with leather knots that can be unknotted or any other toys that engage their minds and their bodies.

Birds that pluck do well with toys that can be preened. When they are busy preening their toys, they spend less time pulling out their feathers. If you buy toys with preening strips made with cotton fabric, keep a close eye on the toys. When one of the strips begins to fray, remove it immediately. The threads could tangle around your bird's neck or toe. Preening toys made with feathers are a bit safer, since they don't pose the danger of loose threads.

Play gyms for birds are similar to play gyms for children and are just as popular with our feathered friends. You can find small play gyms with a swing, perch and ladder or you can find elaborate gyms with seesaws, treat bowls and climbing ropes.

There are some toys you should avoid. If a toy has a mirror or extremely reflective surface, your bird may become bonded to his reflection instead of remaining tame and friendly with people. Toys with small parts that are not securely attached, such as small, flimsy clappers in cowbells, are also a bad idea. If your bird removes a tiny part and swallows it, there could be fatal consequences. If you buy a toy which does have a cowbell, you may want to remove the clapper ahead of time to be on the safe side.

Finally, just as young children will discard an expensive toy to play with an oatmeal box, birds often are just as happy playing with simple toys, such as tongue depressors, children's wooden blocks, or paper towel tubes. Just be sure that you supervise them closely to be sure they don't ingest whatever they are playing with.

How to care for your sick bird

2007-11-22T08:28:00.000-08:00

Although caring for any sick pet can be a bit tricky, caring for sick birds is extremely challenging. By the time many bird owners realize their pets are sick, the birds are seriously ill. If your bird is sick, you should contact your avian veterinarian immediately. However, reaching your veterinarian when you realize your bird is sick is not always possible. What do you do to help your bird until you can get him to the vet's office?

The first thing you should do for your sick bird is to warm him up. A grow light for plants is an ideal heat source. Aim the light so that your bird is able to move away from it if he gets too hot. If your bird is sitting on the bottom of his cage and is unable to sit on his perch, you may want to move him into hospital cage for added warmth and safety.

Aquariums make excellent hospital cages for birds. Simply put some form of bedding in the bottom, such as a towel or newspaper and place shallow crocks of food and water in one corner. If you line the aquarium with newspaper, it can be a bit slippery for your bird to stand on, so you may want to place a few paper towels on top of the paper.

Ideally, you should have a low perch in the aquarium. A freestanding triangle perch is perfect for this purpose. Position a light so that it shines on one side of the cage. This way, your bird is not forced to sit under the light if the hospital cage gets too warm.

If you don't have an aquarium, you can turn your bird's normal cage into a hospital cage. Cover most of the bird cage with a towel to keep the warmth in and put a perch and feed and water dishes on the cage bottom.

Next, you should be sure your bird does not become weakened by a lack of nutrition and dehydration. Electrolytes can provide some quick energy for an ill bird. See if he will drink a few drops of a sports drink from a spoon. For birds that were handfed, this should not be a problem unless they are too weak to drink. In fact, if you have handfeeding formula, you can mix up a bit of the formula using the sports drink instead of water. This can help make the taste a bit more appealing.

If your bird doesn't seem weak enough to need electrolytes, keep a close eye on the amount of food he eats and offer him a sprig of spray millet for some quick energy.

Of course, if your bird needs emergency care, you will want to apply first aid before setting him up in a hospital cage. If he is bleeding, check to see if the blood is coming from a broken feather. While most feathers will not bleed if they are broken, new feathers, called blood feathers, are still growing and will bleed.

You will need to pull the blood feather completely out to stop the bleeding. Don't forget to carefully cover your bird's head with a towel or you may end up bleeding, too. Having a feather pulled out hurts and even the sweetest bird may instinctively lash out and bite you. If your bird is bleeding from a ripped nail or bitten toe, apply styptic powder or flour to the cut to control the bleeding.

The right surrounding condition for your pet birds

2007-11-15T23:42:00.000-08:00

If you are new to bird ownership, it often seems like there is so much to worry about. After all, your parrot came into your home happy and healthy. Now, how do you make sure that he stays that way?

One of the first concerns of a new bird owner is the home's temperature. After all, a lot of pet birds are tropical animals, so the climate of the room your bird is staying in should be quite warm and humid, right? Actually, birds can live comfortably in a room with a temperature ranging from in the mid-fifties to the high eighties. You should actually be much more concerned with drafts in the room.

If you plan to place your bird near a window, light a candle and move it slowly around the edges of the window. If there is a draft, the candle's flame will flicker. Once you've located any drafts, caulk the window areas to seal them. You may also want to check for drafts around your electrical outlets. Even if you do not find any drafts, you may want to cover the back and sides of your bird's cage at night or on chilly winter days to avoid drafts from doorways.

Another important consideration for bird owners is water quality. If you have well water, you probably plan to have it tested before using it as your bird's water supply. However, even public water systems can have too many chemicals for your bird's safety at times and while you can give your birds bottled water, this water also is not always bacteria free. Instead, you may want to install a filter on your tap so that you can give your birds water that is as pure as possible.

Of course, stressors in the environment are also a concern. If you have a cat or dog, you should be sure your pet is not allowed to sit and stare unblinkingly at your bird for long periods of time. Allowing your cat to try to put his paws in the cage is even more stressful and dangerous. Birds can die from stress. Cat scratches and cat bites are also a serious problem. Cats have so much bacteria on their teeth and claws that your bird can die from a minor cat scratch.

Pests such as mice and roaches are another environmental concern. In addition to stressing birds when they dart about, these pests can carry diseases and bacteria that could prove fatal to your new pet.

Finally, since birds seem to enjoy staring out the window, many owners think they should hang their cages on the porch during the day. Unfortunately, there are so many outdoor dangers for birds today, such as mosquitoes carrying West Nile virus, that leaving your bird on an unscreened porch can be potentially fatal. When you add stray cats and the danger of having the cage door pop open to the equation, taking your bird outdoors for the day can be a really bad idea.

Choosing the right cage for your pet bird

2007-11-12T06:02:00.000-08:00

A cage is one of the most important pieces of equipment you will need to buy for your new bird. The proper cage can help your bird stay healthy and safe. However, there are so many different types of cages. How do you choose the right one?

First, consider the type of bird you are buying. If you have any type of parakeet, cockatiel or another long tailed bird species, you will need a long cage so that your bird can get plenty of exercise. Ideally, the cage should be long enough so the bird can actually fly from one side to the other. A bird with a stocky body, such as a lovebird or a Senegal parrot, gets a lot of exercise by climbing around in the cage. These birds do well in a cage that is taller than it is wide.

Next, you should consider the size of the cage. While usually you should plan to buy the biggest cage you can afford for your bird, a newly weaned handfed baby bird may feel lost and frightened in a large cage. He also may have trouble locating his food and water dishes. It is usually a good idea to buy a small cage for your baby bird's first few months and switch him to a larger cage when he is older.

Another thing to keep in mind when you are selecting your bird's cage is the spacing between the cage bars. A beautiful $300 cage isn't very useful if your bird can fit through the bars anytime he wants to. If you are thinking about using a cage with wire mesh, you should compare the size of the hole in the mesh with the size of your bird's head before you make your selection. A cage made with one inch mesh is just the right size for a cockatiel to stick his head through. Instead of pulling their heads back in through the same hole, cockatiels have been known to bend their necks into a 'U' shape and stick their heads into a different hole.

Once you have decided on the cage size and bar spacing, you should consider a few other aspects of bird cage design. Take a look at the cage tray. When you pull it out to clean it, is there a grate in the cage to keep the bird from escaping? Is the tray deep enough to catch most of the mess your bird makes? Even if the cage has a deep tray, you still may find that your bird scatters a lot of seed hulls and feathers on the floor if there is no cage apron. While you can place your cage in a plastic apron base or cover the bottom of the cage with a cloth apron, a built in metal apron is a really nice feature.

Finally, don't forget to take a look at the cage cups. There should be a way for you to easily access the cups without reaching into the cage through the main door. If you are buying a cage for a bigger bird, the cups should actually bolt to the cage unless you want to spend every morning and afternoon for the next 50 years reaching for cups that your bird has tossed onto the bottom of the cage.

Cute cockatiels can make great pets!

2007-11-12T05:52:00.000-08:00

If you are going to be owning a bird for the first time, you may want to take a close look at the cockatiel. This family friendly bird is the perfect choice for beginners, since it is easy to care for and adaptable. Most cockatiels are happy to cuddle up to their owners, especially if it means they'll be getting a neck scratch, but they also can be fairly good talkers and whistlers.

While cockatiels are one of the best smaller talking birds, they certainly aren't on the same level as the African grey. Your bird will have a high, little voice and will be able to learn about fifty words if you work with it consistently and it has the desire to learn to talk. Some cockatiels simply prefer to whistle and will learn several complicated tunes, but will refuse to say as much as 'Hello' to their owners.

If you have family members with allergies or asthma, they may be affected by the dander your cockatiel sheds. These birds, like African greys and cockatoos, have quite a bit of dander. If you decide to get a cockatiel despite the possibility of allergies, be prepared to spend time each day misting your bird's feathers to help keep dander down. You may also need to consider buying a plexiglass cage to keep your bird from spreading seed hulls, dander and dust where it would irritate your family's allergies.

If you decide that a cockatiel is right for you, you will need to make another decision - which color mutation you want. Cockatiels have been raised in captivity for so many years that it is no surprise that they come in a wide range of colors.

The standard grey cockatiels are the most common. Males have a bright yellow face with orange cheek patches when they mature. Cinnamon cockatiels are an attractive tan color mutation. Male cinnamons also develop a yellow face and bright orange cheek patches as they mature.

Pearl cockatiels have white pearl-like spots on their wings and chest. However, when males mature, they lose their pearl spots. Normal pearls look like grey cockatiels and cinnamon pearls look like cinnamon males.

Pieds are also very popular. These birds have grey, cinnamon, or pearl splotches on yellow or white bodies. A clear pied is almost all yellow with color on the wings.

Lutino cockatiels, whiteface and yellowface cockatiels are also available. Lutino cockatiels, with their bright yellow coloring, are very popular pets. However, of all the cockatiels, lutinos are the most high strung, often given to 'frighting' for no apparent reason. There are exceptions, but for a first bird, you may want to consider a different color mutation.

Finally, once you choose your cockatiel, you will need to select the right cage for it. Although you do not need to be concerned about having your bird bend wires with his beak, you do need to take a close look at the cage spacing. If your bird can stick his head through the bars, it may decide to stick it back in through another set of bars instead of simply sliding it back out.

More than one cockatiel has gotten stuck doing this and it can prove fatal if the bird is not discovered in time. For this reason, be sure you look for a cage designed for cockatiels. The spacing between the bars should never be wider than 3/4 of an inch (1.91 cm).

Bird grooming tips

2007-11-12T05:50:00.000-08:00

If you own a dog or a cat, you probably knew that you would have to spend some time grooming your new pet. However, did you know that birds need to be groomed, too? Of course, you won't be brushing his feathers, but you will need to clip his toenails, clip his wings and give him the occasional misting.

Clipping a bird's toenails is a fairly simple procedure, but if you are uncertain whether you can handle the job, you can ask your veterinarian or local pet store owner for help. If you do not have his nails clipped, your bird can get his foot caught on his cage bars, his toys or his cage cover, so you really shouldn't avoid this grooming chore.

To clip your bird's toenails, you will need a helper, a towel, a pair of animal nail clippers and some styptic powder. If you don't have styptic powder and you need to clip the nails immediately, household flour is an excellent blood-clotting agent.

Before you try to clip your bird's nails, you will need to be sure he is unable to bite you. Carefully place the towel over his head and body. Make sure that he can breathe. Speak to him in a soothing tone and hold him securely. Have your helper clip off the little hook on the end of each toenail. Do not clip into the rest of the nail or your bird will begin to bleed.

If he does start to bleed, apply the styptic powder to the wound and watch him closely to be sure the bleeding stops. As soon as you are done clipping his toenails, release the bird back into his cage. He will be cross and irritable, so even if he is usually extremely sweet natured, you may want to let him calm down for a bit before you try to handle him to avoid being bitten.

While some people feel that clipping a bird's wings is cruel, not clipping your pet's wings can really be a bad idea. Unclipped birds can fly into windows or mirrors and break their necks. They can also slip out an open door or window and fall prey to cats, dogs or local predators. To clip your bird's wings, you will need a towel, scissors and styptic powder. A helper is nice, but not necessary.

To clip a bird's wings, you will need to restrain him with the towel, leaving one wing exposed. Cradle the bird securely and pull the exposed wing gently out until it is extended. You will see two rows of feathers. The long row of feathers on the bottom half of the wing are his flight feathers that help him fly. Never cut into the top row of shorter feathers. Now, you will have to decide if you want to do a severe wing clip or a more moderate clip that allows your bird to glide if he jumps off of his cage or play gym.

A severe wing clip is one that removes all ten of the long feathers at the end of the bird's wings. A moderate clip leaves the first two feathers intact and removes the next eight feathers. Pinioning is a more permanent method of wing clipping and should only be done by a veterinarian.

Clip carefully, as you do not want to hit a blood feather. If one of the feathers starts to bleed, pull it out so that you remove both the feather and its shaft and apply styptic powder. Once the first wing is clipped, switch to the other side and repeat the process. Clipping only one side is dangerous, as it leaves the bird off balance.

Finally, you may want to occasionally mist your bird using a new spray bottle filled with water to help him stay sleek and smooth. Never use an old spray bottle, as it could have contained something hazardous to birds. Most birds really enjoy the process. Just be sure you do not mist your bird in the evening, as you want to be sure he has plenty of time to dry off.

Will the egg hatch and other breeding questions

2007-11-12T05:47:00.000-08:00

When you're new to bird breeding, you may feel as though all you have is questions. However, you also may think that you can't possibly ask some of the questions you have because more experienced breeders will think you are unintelligent. While your local librarian will tell you the only stupid question is one you didn't ask, finding out a few of the basics can help you feel a bit more confident.

One of the first things many people who are new to bird breeding wonder is whether the eggs their bird is laying will hatch. If she is a single female, the answer is no. Eggs need to be fertilize before the bird lays them, so before she lays her eggs she does need to have a male bird in her cage to make fertile eggs.

Parrots and other pet birds will lay infertile eggs just as chickens do. Simply throw the infertile eggs away and either pair your female up with a male or try to discourage her from laying more eggs. If she is still alone and doesn't stop laying eggs, you can try allowing her to keep her eggs until she stops laying them. She may sit on them a few weeks, but she will abandon them when they do not hatch.

Another question new bird breeders wonder about is whether birds will breed without nest boxes. Although some birds do lay eggs and hatch them successfully on the bottom of the cage or in an empty feed cup, you should never try to have them do so. A nest box is designed to keep the baby birds safe and warm and will help the parent birds feel more secure and relaxed. Also, if your birds nest on the bottom of the cage, by the time the eggs hatch and the babies grow up, your cage would be awfully dirty.

Many bird owners also wonder how long it takes bird eggs to hatch. Although the time can vary depending on the species of bird, most eggs take three weeks to hatch. Some birds do not begin to incubate eggs until they are all laid, which causes them all to hatch at the same time, but most birds begin incubating almost immediately. This means that a clutch of five babies can range from one day to ten days old. Some breeders remove the eggs as they are laid and then return them all to the nest after the hen finishes laying her eggs so that they will hatch more closely together. However, before you try this, you should be aware that the parents may not accept the eggs back.

Finally, you may notice that the female bird is not leaving the nest box as regularly as the male. This doesn't mean she is starving. A good mate will feed the female so she doesn't have to leave the babies often. However, you should still keep an eye on the situation to be sure the female is getting food and water.

Making your home a safe place for your pet bird to live in

2007-11-12T00:08:00.000-08:00

Despite the fact that some of them can outlive their owners, birds are more fragile than many other types of animals. In fact, miners used this weakness to stay safe underground. They often carried a canary with them because they knew these birds were so sensitive that the canary would die if the air in the tunnel was unhealthy.

Pet birds have this same susceptibility to unhealthy odors. Teflon pans, aerosol sprays and even furniture polish can be lethal for your birds. Always be sure to use anything with a strong odor in a well-ventilated area that is well away from your birds.

Another serious danger for pet birds is their desire to chew. Birds will chew on welded items and develop lead poisoning from the soldered joints. They will also nibble on potted plants. Be sure that any plants near your bird's cage are not toxic. If you aren't sure, you may want to move them just to be safe. Despite all the reports to the contrary, poinsettia plants are not poisonous. Providing a safe alternative, such as a small pot of parsley can help your birds avoid the temptation to nibble on your houseplants.

When you feed your birds fresh food, you usually are doing something good for your birds. However, there are some things you should not feed them. Avocado, coffee and chocolate are toxic to birds.

As you approach the holiday season, you will probably be bringing a tree into the house. Many people see the tree and naturally assume that their birds can enjoy climbing on it. However, many Christmas trees are toxic to birds, especially if they have been treated with any type of preservatives. In addition, many of the ornaments and the electric lights can pose a safety hazard.

Of course, if your bird does not have clipped wings, there are quite a few additional safety concerns that you will face. First, you should be sure that all of your windows have curtains or shades so that you can cover them while your bird is out. If you have glass doors, they should be covered as well. If you don't use curtains or shades, you should place safety decals on the glass so your birds can tell the glass is there. More than one bird has flown into glass and broken his neck. Mirrors and other large reflective surfaces pose the same problem.

Next, you should be sure you don't have standing water accessible when your bird is out. Your bird can drown in the toilet or the kitchen sink in a matter of seconds. Cooking while a bird that can fly is out is also a bad idea, especially if you have an uncovered pot on the stove.

Finally, more than one bird owner has forgotten that his bird was perched on his shoulder when he has hurried to answer the door. Never carry your bird to an open door, even if his wings are clipped. A bird with clipped wings can still glide quite far if he catches an updraft.